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2019: A Year in Review

Countries: Thailand, Vietnam and Myanmar

Backgrounder: Asking my Universe
Late in 2018, after struggling the entire year for lodging, money and the solitude, I finally asked my benevolent universe for 3 things:

1. home - since I had been traveling for 8 years already, I was too tired from packing, moving, unpacking and packing-up again. I wanted to settle down but there was no place for me to do that - I had been homeless all those years. Where do I go?
2. money - for most of my 8 years, I never had enough money but at least, I had about 1 month to 2 months lead time before money would run out. But 2018 was a horribly tight leash on money. Often, I would land in a country with only $100 and I would have to wing my survival for the remaining days of my visa. At one time in Bangkok, I was down to my last B80 with no prospect of money on the horizon. F%$#k, that was 2 meals away from starving in a foreign country that speaks a different language, worships a different God, with a culture and tradition alien to me! That's how bad it went. Sure, my poverty was by choice, but it was also taxing my sanity. I couldn't get my mind to stop racing to ensure my survival. I was living, breathing, dreaming and waking up to just surviving another day.
3. partner - I love my independence - doing what I want to do, being what I want to be and going where I want to go. But after traveling alone too long, I was getting lonely. I wanted to wake up in the morning with someone I like to be with. But as a drifter, a partner was hard to come by...especially when you struggle with the cheapest meal on a side street. Instead of asking for specific qualities, I simply asked my universe to find me the right girl.

at a hugfest in Chiang Mai's Thapae Gate

Mike
When I reconnected with an old friend, Mike, in Chiang Mai in Jan 2019, he asked me if I wanted to be the 'soul' of his 4-room boutique hotel, Nawa Saraan. Without asking what the job really entailed or if I would get money for it, I just said yes. From then on, life took an amazing turn for abundance, ease and reprieve. The 3 things I asked from my universe, simply manifested:

1. home - as soul of Nawa Saraan, I defaulted to staying at a modest room within the hotel. It had the basics I needed - a bed, bathroom, table and cabinet. My needs are meager. Nawa Saraan became home in a plush garden hotel setting. I didn't have to keep packing and unpacking anymore. I had a home! Not only that, there was a team of staff who looked after the upkeep of the hotel - Housekeeping, Maintenance, Laundry, etc. I didn't really have to do any housework (something I'm not good at anyway). I didn't have to pay for rent or utilities either. Not only did I have a home, I also had the hotel grounds to invite friends over for coffee and bread. Nawa Saraan became my slice of paradise on God's green earth.
2. money - Me and Mike never talked about money. I never asked for any either. But every once in awhile, he gives me some. I don't even bother to count. I just say, "thank you". With money in my pocket, I didn't have to worry where the next meal comes from. I could even go to restaurants where 'farangs' (white foreigners) eat, but I don't. I immensely enjoy street food at B30-50/meal - why pay more? But I do have money to pay for pricey meals when invited to a group gathering in farang eating places. I even had money to buy 2 bicycles - for me and a friend! I felt so relieved not to worry about money anymore or where the next meal comes from.
3. partner
   The NewYorker
   I found her and she found me - let's call her "The New Yorker". Together, we were seamless. I saw my role as an enabler for her, empowering her and supporting her with whatever she wanted to do (not financial). Most women I'd been with can't handle that (and take my support as entitlement). But she gets it. That's why we get along well.
   
   Even though I just did the 'boyfriend' duties (nothing extraordinary), I was surprised at what she wrote me after she left, "You have been the best 'boyfriend' I ever had. (I want you to) realize how good you've made me feel emotionally, physically, spiritually, and whatever other levels there are. In a way, you have restored my faith in humanity." Whoa! I didn't see that coming.
   
   Because I didn't really do anything special (I didn't donate my other kidney to her), maybe I got those praises for the things I did not do. I did not control her, didn't deceive her, didn't take her money, didn't use her. And this probably says a lot about relationships nowadays.
   
   We were together for 2 months until she had to leave for greener career pasture. Sure, I got what I prayed for, but I didn't think it would be so short-lived. Anyway, I was grateful. We both decided we would break up because long distance is not viable, but we agreed to continue being a part of each other's lives.
   
   Towards yearend, she came back to Chiang Mai for the yuletide season. I got a break from hotel duties and traveled a bit with her. We were together for two weeks until she had to leave again. 2019 started right for me. With The New Yorker around, 2019 ended equally as great.
   The New Yorker blogs:

   1. 2020: A Year in Review Dec 31, 2020
   2. 2019: A Year in Review Dec 31, 2019
   3. Friends, Coffeemates and Breadmates (Dec 2019) Dec 31, 2019
   4. The Conscious Peoplescape of Chiang Mai Aug 31, 2019
   5. Kaleidoscope of Chiang Mai's Peoplescape July 27, 2019

   ---

   
   

Traveling
2019 was definitely not a year of traveling for me. The only reason I left Thailand was for my visa run. I went to Tachileik, Myanmar twice, but only for visa run. I also went to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City for the same purpose. I did however, enjoy the 2 nights I stayed in Chiang Rai. Somehow, travel does not seem as exciting as it used to be. I'm simply happy to be settled here in beautiful Chiang Mai.

On the expiration of my visa run, instead of leaving the country, I simply paid for the B1900 30-day extension. But Thai Immigration has been shaking down hard on people who have stayed too long or visited too frequently. Statistically, my days are numbered. I was lucky to survive 2019 intact. 2020 will be challenging given this immigration Zeitgeist.

Soul of Nawa Saraan
My main task was to ensure the well-being of the hotel guests - something natural for me to begin with. And I make that clear to the guests as well. I tell them that my job is to ensure they keep that smile on their faces. I still see myself as a traveler and I treat them like travelers - they feel that. Unsolicited hotel reviews say it all, often citing "the hotel manager" in good light.

1. Thailand 10/10 - The manager was courteous and friendly and also bakes delicious bread!
2. Spain 10/10 - The receptionist's treatment is positive (I also front for reception as I'm the sole staff)
3. Canada 10/10 - Great staff, really enjoyed our stay! Staff had great tips and getting checked in and out was a breeze (yep, I'm the staff)
4. France 10/10 - The hotel manager is super friendly, always very attentive to customers.
5. Thailand 10/10 - The service is super good.
6. China 10/10 - The staff is distinguishably friendly and nice.
7. China 9.6/10 - The manager is a Filipino and very enthusiastic. It is interesting to chat with him for a long time in his spare time.
8. Germany 7.9/10 - The hotel manager was very helpful.

As acting manager, I also enjoyed perks. All 3rd-party tours were complimentary to me for guest recommendation. I tried a few: elephant tour, zip-lining, cooking class, and a Muay Thai fight. They are all expensive and fun, but there's only so much I could take.

Blues Music Scene
Blues music is rare in Asia. But in Chiang Mai, it's fair game. There are a few bars playing Blues on certain days of the week. Almost nightly, I would nurse my beer at any of Chiang Mai's bars for my Blues fix - Boy Blues Bar, Thapae East, My Bar, Lost Hut, CU Corner, Mohawk Bar, etc. One of my favorite past times is exploring the bar scene. Many obscure hole-in-the-wall bars with unique atmosphere and community.

Conscious Community
Chiang Mai is a haven for the conscious community - people who are aware of their existential circumstance and pursue a life of purpose and spirituality. Granted, they are mostly hippies. Many such events are catered to them by teachers with different modalities. I've done secret sunrise, cacao ceremony, full moon ritual, cuddling party, eye gazing and a hugfest.

Thai Massage
I was lucky to have a barter-deal with the International Thai Massage School. Web review and blog advertisement in exchange for a Level-One Thai massage certification course. Too bad I didn't get the chance to use it. I still have the manual and Youtube video. Once I get a model to practice on, I should be back on track.

I think the best way to experience Thai massage therapy in Chiang Mai is to get it from any of the numerous Thai massage rock stars. You need to sign-up ahead of time since they are fully booked weeks in advance. You pay more, but they'll play you like a violin. I had one such treatment from Lar Thanakrit Khamtanong - massage teachers go to him for treatment.

Peoplescape
Because I wasn't traveling anymore, and since I have a gathering space at the hotel, I just immersed myself in Chiang Mai's peoplescape, inviting interesting people I meet for coffee and bread. Some have become regulars. I'd have them over for breakfast, lunch or dinners. I was liking it too much, it was beginning to be a fix. I had to hold back a few times to get my bearings right. By nature, I'm a very giving guy. Most appreciate it, but there were some oddballs who got through my filter and took it as entitlement. You get all kinds. On rare occasions, I get invited too - that rare reciprocity is greatly cherished.

Chiang Mai Woes
2019 has been hard for Chiang Mai. The burning season has been the worst ever. It was judged the most polluted place on the planet during the height of the burning. Many hotel bookings were canceled. Although the burning only lasted for 2 months, many travelers were left with the lingering impression that Chiang Mai is always polluted. They probably won't come back. If that's not bad enough, the Euro has fallen in value, making Chiang Mai a more expensive place for the European currency. Many other places outside Thailand have opened up adding more destinations for tourists. Vietnam is particularly aggressive with its tourism initiative. In fact, Danang is being touted as the new digital nomad capital of Southeast Asia. Chiang Mai has to compete with those places as well. Overall, hotel occupancy has been on record low. It hurts Nawa Saraan and of course, it hurts me as well.

Yoga
Because the hotel business was slow for the most part of the year, I had time on my hands to deepen my yoga practice. I read, practised and wrote about hand mudras (Hasta Mudra). In parallel, I also delved into T. Krishnamacharya's 20 essential mudras and prana vayu. I integrate mudra, bandha, pranayama and kumbhaka into my practice. Every morning upon waking up, I would do 20 minutes of breathing exercise followed by another 20 minutes of Vipassana. Since I hardly do any asanas anymore in my practice, I frequent Yoga in the Park - Chiang Mai for my dose of asanas. I could feel my body, spirit and mind getting stronger and integrated. Now, I can understand why someone who needs to immerse in spirituality needs to abandon life as a householder and be a monk. I am lucky to span these 2 worlds.

Since my yoga is already a bio-mind hack, what's my validation that my practice is still sound and healthy? Simple. I use my body as a benchmark. Am I strong or weak? Am I sickly or vibrant? Am I unlucky or lucky? Everything from every angle points to the positive. I could sometimes feel the strength of a raging locomotive. I hardly ever get sick, not on any kind of medication, and I feel a bounce on my stride. I always find myself in the right place, at the right time meeting people I need to meet. Additionally, I'm hardly getting old. Forever young? Maybe! That's why I am supremely confident my brand of yoga is sound and powerful.

Hacking my Biology
I need dental work. 8 years of traveling means 8 years with no dental insurance to pick-up the tab. While I enjoy having some money now, it's not enough to cover dental work. One crown is allready B15,000. Need I say more? I am left with one alternative - an ambitious one. What if I hack my biology? I had been hacking my body and my mind already, so what's the big deal? With all my deepening yogic practice, and the seeming benefit I get from it, why not level up and transcend the limits of my biology? And that's what I had been doing for the last few months. I had been doing everything I could imagine with all the mudra, bandha, pranayama and kumbhaka that I could muster, controlling the vayus, and generating heat in my Jhatara Agni with one single-minded focus - defy the limits of biology. The yogis of Tibet and India have done it. In theory, I already know how to do it. In reality, I am already doing what it takes to make it happen. Perhaps one day, it will just click and everything will fall into place. If that actually happens, the ramification is profound. Almost frightening. If I can hack my biology, then I can hack reality. If reality is indeed a simulation, then it can be hacked.

Movies
Because I was able to work out a barter deal with SXF Cinema at Maya Mall for free movies in exchange for a review, I have been a cinemaphile with roughly 40 movie reviews to my credit. Whenever it's a slow evening, I could always default to Maya Mall for a movie. Thank you, Fui!

Ending Thoughts
2019 is a Thank-U-Mike year for me. Through his kindness and friendship, I enjoyed this whole-year abundance. When shit hits the fan, Mike seems to always be there to save the day for me...even if he's in Chiang Mai and I'm somewhere else in Asia. Corollarily, I also see that by being here, I'll be around if shit hits the fan for him too. Quantum entanglement? I don't see it any other way.

I cannot say I'm optimistic about 2020 about my stay in Chiang Mai. Immigration is a looming dark cloud hovering over my head. I can be refused entry on my next visa run. Furthermore, the burning season is just around the corner - Feb to Mar. I don't think I want to be here when the air gets too polluted. It doesn't make sense for me to do all that cleansing practice, only to be breathing-in bad air. Additionally, I feel the increasing need to go to a Vipassana course again. Maybe do a 20 or even a 30-day course. Things are up in the air. But whatever 2020 holds for me, I will forever remember 2019 as a year of abundance and ease. I am profoundly grateful for that.

--- Gigit (TheLoneRider)
YOGA by Gigit | Learn English | Travel like a Nomad | Donation Bank

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Chiang Mai INFORMATION

Chiang Mai Map

Chiang Mai, Thailand

IMPORTANT PLACES
Bus Station
Train Station
Chiang Mai International Airport
Nong Buak Hard Park - free yoga classes daily

HOTEL
Arun Dara Villa - 7 exclusive rooms, 1 swimming pool for every room, grand opening
Nawa Sheeva Hotel - big rooms, high ceiling, salt-water pool, restaurant, cafe
Nawa Saraan Hotel - low density (4 spacious rooms), stone garden setting, Koi fish pond, Old City location
Arun Suite - 3 bedrooms in a 3-storie guesthouse within Old City, ideal for families

RESTAURANT
La Pizza Chiang Mai - Italian pizza, pasta, wine, dessert, coffee
Natural Bird Nest by Burapa - authentic bird's nest soup

WELLNESS
ITM - International Training Massage School - Chiang Mai's most prestigious massage school
Float Chiang Mai - sensory deprivation float pod
Zira Spa - upscale authentic Thai massage and spa treatment

MOTORBIKE RENTAL
Tawan Bike - motorcycle rental | +66 91 635 2863 | Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200

Travel Tips for Thailand

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