Normalcy With Covid's 2nd wave lashing out its fury on the global scene (according to mainstream media, which is highly suspect), Thailand has been inching its way to normalcy with more events being held and people coming out.
Yoga in the Park Teachers Yoga in the Park - Chiang Mai These are the unsung heroes of yoga in Chiang Mai. They volunteer their time and put a lot of effort in conducting free yoga for the benefit of the community. These transient souls are mostly traveling yoga teachers who stopped over in Chiang Mai (or perhaps stranded due to Covid) and shared their expertise and knowledge. Some have newly finished their certification training while some are long time veterans who have criss-crossed the map to fulfill their global commitments. Chiang Mai and its yogins are indeed lucky to have such wonderful yogis who lead yogic lives by sharing what they know.
Gabriella Heart Space Gab invited me to her birthday bash at Mothership(mountain resort) together with like-minded revelers who are largely Heart Space denizens - me included. It was the most fun I had in a long time. I love this girl. Chiang Mai is lucky to have a wonderful soul who radiates empowerment and positivity, illuminating radiance where people in search of answers find bearing. She develops and nurtures a community of conscious people by hosting relevant events and providing safe space for everyone.
Santiago Damaru Sound Journeys I met him first at Yoga in the Park, and has since been part of the yoga scene, including my Yoga for Abs class. He doesn't come on strong so it's hard to notice him initially. He has this consistent cool and calm demeanor - never unruffled. I haven't seen him get excited or forlorn. He's almost always in meditative mode. But he is funny in his own candid way. From out of nowhere, he would say something not meant to be funny, but everybody cracks up. His one-liners are like a straight jab you don't see coming. He is a wealth of information, life experience and insight. A great storyteller too. I had the privilege of listening to him during the road trip to Mothership en route to Gabriela's birthday gig where he talked about his many healing modalities, his 10-month life in Auroville, being a DJ, yogi, shaman, etc. I would liken him to an onion - many layered dimensions as you peel away. He's gone on to where life beckoned and I am grateful that I had a brief and incisive glimpse of this animated wanderer whose light radiates with charm and grace.
Jonas Shantaya Yoga School I always saw him doing a handstand at the park while I was doing yoga. Of course, he got my attention - handstand has been the most elusive asana for me. Finally I got to meet him and even bumped into him at Boy Blues Bar, Justin's birthday bash and even dropped by his penthouse digs for kombucha. He's a human Swiss Army knife - physiotherapist, massage therapist and Annusara yoga educator. He's been doing his shtick for decades now, travelling nearly non-stop until he burned out. Now, he's taking it easy in Chiang Mai. Talking to him revealed layered dimensions full of life experience, insight and wisdom. He could have been a yoga rock star if he chose to, but I guess it wasn't for him. I told him to write a book. It would be such a waste if he just died and everything else he knew died with him. If people just share unique insight and life experience, we don't need to reinvent the wheel all over again.
Haruka She showed up at yoga in the park asking many questions which I tried to answer. This extended to coffee/bread talk at Nawa Saraan. She just left her job to follow her bliss. Like most newbies into the conscious path, she is drawn to it, but not entirely sure how to wing or navigate the maze. I guess I gave her a blueprint - more or less. By the time she left, we had been talking for 4 hours. I never saw her again, but we touch base every once in a while. Chiang Mai seems to draw people in search of answers, people in search of healing and people in search of emotional solace. Her last message was, "Your bread is on the Top 5 in my life!" I could just imagine what's on my tombstone: His yoga was exceeded only by his bread.
Pui I have always found Thai people as endearing as they are aloof. It was a lot easier for me connecting with farangs(foreign travelers). With Thais, there was always a wall - perhaps it's a language issue. But meeting Pui at yoga in the park opened what I would call the secret gate into the Thai world. We had a good comfort level with each other, struggling with the language barrier, but finding a lot of common ground to hanging out, coffee, bread and yoga.
Tanya I wish Thai people can speak better English - but it's really my bad for not learning Thai since I had been here in Thailand for nearly 2 years. Tanya likes to share her thoughts but I could only understand a few of her English words. Once just a smiling presence at yoga in the park, we developed a comfortable friendship over long talks, coffee and food. Half-wild, half-conscious, she straddles the 2 worlds with ease, knowing and pursuing what she wants. Slowly, the spiritual path seems to be sinking in....slowly but surely.
Bangkok friends
Gluay and Marcela both got cheap airline tickets for unlimited flights within a time frame. Thus they became frequent visitors to Chiang Mai. Yaro, Chiang Mai based, whom I met together with everyone else at Rinna Pow's Get Lost in BKK and Beyond, would be the ever-present friend who would attend to them. Together, we would meet up in bars for good Blues or just dance the night away. Always, coffee and bread were in order.
The Usual Suspects
While Chiang Mai's peoplescape resembles a revolving door, some people are a staple and a permanent fixture to me (because they live in Chiang Mai) - the usual suspects. To an even precious few, I hold them closely within my sacred orbit and consider their presence an indispensable constant.
Ending Thoughts With the Thai visa exemption still hanging over my head, I remain vigilant to start a new mini-life somewhere. Still don't know where life takes me next.
But Chiang Mai, this time around, upon my post-burn return, has been nothing short of magical - daily yoga in the park, teaching yoga classes again and making a little khao soi money from it, deepening my yoga practice, having friends come over for coffee and bread, having a romantic and loving episode, blues music or live music almost nightly, starting the day asking myself, "hmmmm, what excites me today?" Wow! This is a life even rich people dream about.
I am grateful for everything, but at the end of the day, I sum it up by saying, "Thank you Mike ❤"
(Dec 31, 2020) Chiang Mai is just a stop-over for travelers - some longer than others. Some leave a mark, others, just a passing blur....more »»
Chiang Mai INFORMATION
Chiang Mai Map
Chiang Mai, Thailand
IMPORTANT PLACES
Bus Station Train Station Chiang Mai International Airport Nong Buak Hard Park - free yoga classes daily
HOTEL
Arun Dara Villa - 7 exclusive rooms, 1 swimming pool for every room, grand opening
Nawa Sheeva Hotel - big rooms, high ceiling, salt-water pool, restaurant, cafe
Nawa Saraan Hotel - low density (4 spacious rooms), stone garden setting, Koi fish pond, Old City location
Arun Suite - 3 bedrooms in a 3-storie guesthouse within Old City, ideal for families
MOTORBIKE RENTAL
Tawan Bike - motorcycle rental | +66 91 635 2863 | Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200
Chiang Mai FYI / Tips
crop-burning season in Chiang Mai is between late Feb to early April. But laws change everytime. This year, 2019, there is a 61-day ban on burning so the farmers started burning early. When my plane was approaching Chiang Mai on Jan 24, 2019, there was already a thick blanket of smog covering the entire city (and beyond). But within the city itself, you won't feel it (but that doesn't mean the air is healthy). To monitor air conditions in real time, refer to site: Chiang Mai Air Pollution: Real-time Air Quality Index (AQI)
hot season begins March and lasts until June
wet season begins July and lasts until September
best time to visit Chiang Mai is mid-September to mid-February - after the monsoon and before the burning
you have to try Khao Soi, this is north Thailand's culinary staple
the tourist area where most of the hotels, restaurants, ticket offices, tour operators are, is located in the Old City
to exchange your dollars to Thai Baht, the Super Rich Money Exchange give the best rates. There are many branches scattered around Chiang Mai
get a red cab (songthao) outside the train station for Baht 50 (instead of paying B100 if inside the train station) to Old City - if you haggle nicely enough...I did!
shared red taxi (songthao) - B30 standard fare plying all over Old City
for only B50/day, best to rent a bike to go around the Old City - it's a 2.5km2 with lots to discover
FREE daily yoga classes from 9:00am to 10:15am at Nong Buak Hard Park (southwest corner of Old City). Resident and passing-through teachers take turns conducting yoga classes.
Blues/Jazz Bars in Chiang Mai
North Gate Jazz Coop - at Chang Phueg Gate, great Tuesday jam session, Blues on Sundays at 11pm by the Chiang Mai Blues band
Boy Blues Bar - at the Night Bazaar. Mondays at 9:30pm is open mic
My Secret Cafe - near Wat Phra Singh. Tuesdays at 7:30pm for the changing front-act and 9:00pm for the Panic Band
Taphae East - 88 Thapae Rd. (just north of Night Bazaar). Fridays at 9:30pm by Chiang Mai Blues Band
Chiang Mai Cost Index
B60 Chiang beer
B250 1 hour drop-in yoga session
B200 one hour Thai body massage at WAYA Massage(highly recommended)
B50 noodle soup with meat
B50 coffee
B40 pad thai
B30/kilo wash-only laundry
B50/kilo wash+iron laundry
B100-150 dorm bed/night
B250 fan room/night
B30 internet cafe/hour
B170-190 Movies Sat-Sun and public holidays
B130-150 Movies weekdays
B100 Movies Wednesdays (movie discount day)
B750 1/2 day Thai cooking lessons
B900-1000 1 full day Thai cooking lessons
B400 Muay Thai boxing ticket
B2500 starting room rate at the luxury hotel, Nawa Sheeva(highly recommended)
Transportation
B450 bus, Chiang Mai to Bangkok
B160-180 bus, Chiang Mai to Pai
B1250 bus, Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang
B1650 slow boat, Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang
B210 bus, Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, 3-4 hours
B360 Green VIP bus, Chiang Mai to Mae Sai (Thai border town for visa run to Tachileik, Myanmar)
B50 bicycle rental, 24 hours
B200 motorbike rental, 24 hours
B273 #51 sleeping train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai
Book Online - direct booking with State Railway of Thailand. Best to register first. If going to BKK from CNX, click "Northern Line".
note -- big difference between booking direct with the State Railway and booking with an online 3rd party agent. 12GO was charging B1330 for the same trip that only cost me B941 with the State Railway.
note -- Oct 2022, I took the #10 Train from CNX to BKK, upper berth, 2nd class, a/c, sleeper, B941. The train was clean, fast, comfortable and modern. If you have heavy luggage that will cost more money in flight checkin, I would suggest this train. Otherwise, the flight now is so much cheaper it doesn't even make sense to take the bus or train.
Bangkok to Chiang Mai by Train from Bang Sue Train Station
10:22pm - #51 Train, arrive Chiang Mai 12:10pm, sleeper, 3rd class B270 (non sleeper), 2nd class B438, B728 upper deck, B798 lower deck
Loei to Chiang Mai by Bus
From Loei town center, take a tuk-tuk ride to the bus station, B30. There is only one bus station.
As of June 28, 2020 (still on Covid schedule), there are only 3 night trips: 8:30pm, 9:30pm and 12 midnight. 9 hours, B470.
The bus makes the following stops at the following times from a 9pm Loei departure: Phu Ruea (9:50pm), Phitsanulok (12:40am), Uttradit (2:20am), Lampang (4:35am)
Final bus stop is at the Red Bus Arcade, Chiang Mai, 9 hour-trip, arriving 6am (from 9pm Loei departure).
Take a red songthaew to Old City, B50. They'll try to charge you B100, but they'll take B50 (just assure the driver you won't tell the other passengers).
How to Get a 60-Day Thai Tourist Visa and then Extend by another 30 Days
This process is BEFORE Covid 19. Not sure what it is now.
60-Day Thai Tourist Visa
NOTE: There is no need to go back to your country to get the Thai tourist visa. Any major city with a Thai Embassy will do. Apparently there is also no need to have an invitation from a Thai establishment to justify the visa.
Bring the following to the Thai embassy:
a) proof of money (bank statement will suffice)
b) flight booking to Thailand
c) onward flight back to your country from Thailand
d) filled-in tourist visa form
e) 2 passport pictures
f) hotel booking in Thailand (they didn't ask me for this but better be safe)
g) passport with at least 6 months validity
After handing over all the documents, they will ask you to come pick your passport with the visa the following day from 4 to 5pm. That's it!
NOTE: after 2 successful attempts, I was already questioned the 3rd time.
30-Day Extension
NOTE: When your 60-day visa is close to expiry and you want to extend your stay. No need to leave Thailand.
bring the following to the Immigration Office:
a) passport (make sure your Tourist Visa hasn't expired yet)
b) Baht 1900
c) photocopy of your passport + visa duration date stamp + TM6 card (white immigration card) and sign all the copies
d) completed TM7 visa extension form (available at the Immigration Office)
e) one 4cmx6cm passport picture
submit the above to the Front Desk. They will give you a stub with your number on it. Take a seat and wait for your number to be called
when your number is called, your picture will be taken. Then go back to your seat. They will call you again.
when they call you again, they'll give you your passport with your extended visa. That's it!
when there are no lines, the whole process can take only 10 minutes
arrive early - in case there is a snag (visa snag, documentation snag, transport ticket snag, etc.), you will have ample time to troubleshoot the problem if you arrive early (to the airport, to the bus terminal, etc.)
put detailed itinerary on the Calendar apps of your smart-phone according to timelines - this is where you do all your thinking and planning. Once written down, you don't have to think anymore while you are on the journey...you just follow the steps. This frees your mind for something else that might happen while you are already en route
avoiding scams - as a general rule, I ignore the touts or anyone I don't know who call out to me. The calling comes in many forms - "Hi! Where are you from?", "Excuse me! Excuse me!", "Where are you going?". I don't look them in the eye and I remain non-verbal with them. If you reply to them, you just gave them an 'in' to hound you. In order not to look rude, I smile and wave the 'not interested' hand to them, without looking at them.
power bank - hand-carry your power bank. Do not check it in. You can be called in when you are already inside the plane to go all the way to the loading dock so you can personally remove the power bank...and chances are, you'll have to surrender it to them. And you might delay the plane departure!