Covid Lockdown With the Covid lockdown, I was stranded for 3 months in Nong Khai at Mut Mee Garden Guest House. When I made plans to return to Chiang Mai in early May after the burning season, I was told in Nong Khai that lockdowns and quarantine were still in place and that I should wait until June 1. When June 1 came, there was still no bus. I was told that because of the curfew, the night bus to Chiang Mai was still on hold. Finally, when the curfew was lifted, I was again told that there was no bus and that I should wait until July 1. At that point, I've had enough and packed up for Chiang Khan. After 8 days in Chiang Khan, I packed-up again for Loei. The new plan was to inch my way back to Chiang Mai, one town at a time, until I get there - no matter how long. I was reminded of Odysseus of the Iliad who finally got home after 10 years due to many misadventures that happened along the way.
Continuing to Phrae and Nan? From Loei, the plan was to catch a bus for Phitsanulok and transfer to a bus for Phrae, spend time in Phrae and then catch another bus for Nan. Why those 2 places? Well, they were highly suggested by my guesthouse owner in Chiang Khan, and additionally, they would take me closer to Chiang Mai.
A Bus to Chiang Mai Unfortunately, the bus for Phitsanulok was full. Where to go now? For a while, I was stumped. I was told that I could wait for the night bus for Chiang Mai and get off at Phrae. What? A night bus for Chiang Mai? I was ecstatic. Of course I booked the trip for Chiang Mai. Phrae and Nan would have to wait a different time. The trip left at 9pm and we arrived Chiang Mai at 6am. I didn't really get any sleep on the bus.
Nawa Saraan Hotel Nawa Saraan has been closed for 3 months already together with the 2 other hotels following the Covid lockdown. Only the Arun Dara Villa remained open. Mike arranged for a staff to open the gates of Nawa Saraan for me. It was such a relief to be back home. Yes, I truly felt home at Nawa Saraan.
Upon arrival, the obvious change was the abandonment. A lot of the plants were dead and many were dying. The hotel grounds were littered with dead leaves. But Koi fish were being fed and have grown in size. Inside the hotel, there was an overlaying dust and dead cockroaches. There was even a growing termite colony. The rooms however remained clean and orderly. The order of the day was to clean up. I cleaned up the bakery first and then the yoga space. I would water the plants every day too. I was there to breathe new life back into the hotel.
My bicycle was still there...never used the entire time. Suzi's juicer was also still there. The 2 ovens were intact. My old stuff was all there - yoga mat, clothes, workout equipment, etc. I quickly resumed my old life back.
enjoying the Zen garden at Nawa Saraan
Back to Old Habits I was quick to jump back into my old habits - my neighborhood Pad Thai place, my smoothie place at Chiang Mai Gate, Blues music at Thapae East, yoga in the park, etc. I was once again juicing and making bread with the carrot pulp. I also brought new habits with me - structuring my water intake. I even brought back all the heavy stones I use for water!
Ending Thoughts Not unlike Odysseus (of the Iliad) who spent the next 10 years trying to reach home after the Trojan War, so were my frustrated attempts at coming back to Chiang Mai after the burning season - but my sojourn only lasted 2 months. Because of the Covid lockdown, it wasn't possible. In a stroke of luck, I came upon a bus trip for Chiang Mai without me even looking for it. Now, a new post-Covid chapter begins.
(July 5, 2020) Anahata Chakra is the seat of consciousness (not the brain) where desires manifest into reality. Opening this chakra leads to intense feelings of devotion. At this level, a yogi accepts and loves all unconditionally for what they are with all its flaws and merits. He sees everyone as an actor playing his role in a play called life.....more »»
(Jan 3-5, 2021) I love Chiang Mai. But when Ashtanga yoga teacher, Aida and her daughter Sofie, invited me to Pai for a New Year break, it felt like a refreshing break from my routine. It would be great to see 'Madonna and Child' one more time and see how they're doing.....more »»
Chiang Mai INFORMATION
Chiang Mai Map
Chiang Mai, Thailand
IMPORTANT PLACES
Bus Station Train Station Chiang Mai International Airport Nong Buak Hard Park - free yoga classes daily
HOTEL
Arun Dara Villa - 7 exclusive rooms, 1 swimming pool for every room, grand opening
Nawa Sheeva Hotel - big rooms, high ceiling, salt-water pool, restaurant, cafe
Nawa Saraan Hotel - low density (4 spacious rooms), stone garden setting, Koi fish pond, Old City location
Arun Suite - 3 bedrooms in a 3-storie guesthouse within Old City, ideal for families
MOTORBIKE RENTAL
Tawan Bike - motorcycle rental | +66 91 635 2863 | Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200
Chiang Mai FYI / Tips
crop-burning season in Chiang Mai is between late Feb to early April. But laws change everytime. This year, 2019, there is a 61-day ban on burning so the farmers started burning early. When my plane was approaching Chiang Mai on Jan 24, 2019, there was already a thick blanket of smog covering the entire city (and beyond). But within the city itself, you won't feel it (but that doesn't mean the air is healthy). To monitor air conditions in real time, refer to site: Chiang Mai Air Pollution: Real-time Air Quality Index (AQI)
hot season begins March and lasts until June
wet season begins July and lasts until September
best time to visit Chiang Mai is mid-September to mid-February - after the monsoon and before the burning
you have to try Khao Soi, this is north Thailand's culinary staple
the tourist area where most of the hotels, restaurants, ticket offices, tour operators are, is located in the Old City
to exchange your dollars to Thai Baht, the Super Rich Money Exchange give the best rates. There are many branches scattered around Chiang Mai
get a red cab (songthao) outside the train station for Baht 50 (instead of paying B100 if inside the train station) to Old City - if you haggle nicely enough...I did!
shared red taxi (songthao) - B30 standard fare plying all over Old City
for only B50/day, best to rent a bike to go around the Old City - it's a 2.5km2 with lots to discover
FREE daily yoga classes from 9:00am to 10:15am at Nong Buak Hard Park (southwest corner of Old City). Resident and passing-through teachers take turns conducting yoga classes.
Blues/Jazz Bars in Chiang Mai
North Gate Jazz Coop - at Chang Phueg Gate, great Tuesday jam session, Blues on Sundays at 11pm by the Chiang Mai Blues band
Boy Blues Bar - at the Night Bazaar. Mondays at 9:30pm is open mic
My Secret Cafe - near Wat Phra Singh. Tuesdays at 7:30pm for the changing front-act and 9:00pm for the Panic Band
Taphae East - 88 Thapae Rd. (just north of Night Bazaar). Fridays at 9:30pm by Chiang Mai Blues Band
Chiang Mai Cost Index
B60 Chiang beer
B250 1 hour drop-in yoga session
B200 one hour Thai body massage at WAYA Massage(highly recommended)
B50 noodle soup with meat
B50 coffee
B40 pad thai
B30/kilo wash-only laundry
B50/kilo wash+iron laundry
B100-150 dorm bed/night
B250 fan room/night
B30 internet cafe/hour
B170-190 Movies Sat-Sun and public holidays
B130-150 Movies weekdays
B100 Movies Wednesdays (movie discount day)
B750 1/2 day Thai cooking lessons
B900-1000 1 full day Thai cooking lessons
B400 Muay Thai boxing ticket
B2500 starting room rate at the luxury hotel, Nawa Sheeva(highly recommended)
Transportation
B450 bus, Chiang Mai to Bangkok
B160-180 bus, Chiang Mai to Pai
B1250 bus, Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang
B1650 slow boat, Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang
B210 bus, Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, 3-4 hours
B360 Green VIP bus, Chiang Mai to Mae Sai (Thai border town for visa run to Tachileik, Myanmar)
B50 bicycle rental, 24 hours
B200 motorbike rental, 24 hours
B273 #51 sleeping train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai
Book Online - direct booking with State Railway of Thailand. Best to register first. If going to BKK from CNX, click "Northern Line".
note -- big difference between booking direct with the State Railway and booking with an online 3rd party agent. 12GO was charging B1330 for the same trip that only cost me B941 with the State Railway.
note -- Oct 2022, I took the #10 Train from CNX to BKK, upper berth, 2nd class, a/c, sleeper, B941. The train was clean, fast, comfortable and modern. If you have heavy luggage that will cost more money in flight checkin, I would suggest this train. Otherwise, the flight now is so much cheaper it doesn't even make sense to take the bus or train.
Bangkok to Chiang Mai by Train from Bang Sue Train Station
10:22pm - #51 Train, arrive Chiang Mai 12:10pm, sleeper, 3rd class B270 (non sleeper), 2nd class B438, B728 upper deck, B798 lower deck
Loei to Chiang Mai by Bus
From Loei town center, take a tuk-tuk ride to the bus station, B30. There is only one bus station.
As of June 28, 2020 (still on Covid schedule), there are only 3 night trips: 8:30pm, 9:30pm and 12 midnight. 9 hours, B470.
The bus makes the following stops at the following times from a 9pm Loei departure: Phu Ruea (9:50pm), Phitsanulok (12:40am), Uttradit (2:20am), Lampang (4:35am)
Final bus stop is at the Red Bus Arcade, Chiang Mai, 9 hour-trip, arriving 6am (from 9pm Loei departure).
Take a red songthaew to Old City, B50. They'll try to charge you B100, but they'll take B50 (just assure the driver you won't tell the other passengers).
How to Get a 60-Day Thai Tourist Visa and then Extend by another 30 Days
This process is BEFORE Covid 19. Not sure what it is now.
60-Day Thai Tourist Visa
NOTE: There is no need to go back to your country to get the Thai tourist visa. Any major city with a Thai Embassy will do. Apparently there is also no need to have an invitation from a Thai establishment to justify the visa.
Bring the following to the Thai embassy:
a) proof of money (bank statement will suffice)
b) flight booking to Thailand
c) onward flight back to your country from Thailand
d) filled-in tourist visa form
e) 2 passport pictures
f) hotel booking in Thailand (they didn't ask me for this but better be safe)
g) passport with at least 6 months validity
After handing over all the documents, they will ask you to come pick your passport with the visa the following day from 4 to 5pm. That's it!
NOTE: after 2 successful attempts, I was already questioned the 3rd time.
30-Day Extension
NOTE: When your 60-day visa is close to expiry and you want to extend your stay. No need to leave Thailand.
bring the following to the Immigration Office:
a) passport (make sure your Tourist Visa hasn't expired yet)
b) Baht 1900
c) photocopy of your passport + visa duration date stamp + TM6 card (white immigration card) and sign all the copies
d) completed TM7 visa extension form (available at the Immigration Office)
e) one 4cmx6cm passport picture
submit the above to the Front Desk. They will give you a stub with your number on it. Take a seat and wait for your number to be called
when your number is called, your picture will be taken. Then go back to your seat. They will call you again.
when they call you again, they'll give you your passport with your extended visa. That's it!
when there are no lines, the whole process can take only 10 minutes
arrive early - in case there is a snag (visa snag, documentation snag, transport ticket snag, etc.), you will have ample time to troubleshoot the problem if you arrive early (to the airport, to the bus terminal, etc.)
put detailed itinerary on the Calendar apps of your smart-phone according to timelines - this is where you do all your thinking and planning. Once written down, you don't have to think anymore while you are on the journey...you just follow the steps. This frees your mind for something else that might happen while you are already en route
avoiding scams - as a general rule, I ignore the touts or anyone I don't know who call out to me. The calling comes in many forms - "Hi! Where are you from?", "Excuse me! Excuse me!", "Where are you going?". I don't look them in the eye and I remain non-verbal with them. If you reply to them, you just gave them an 'in' to hound you. In order not to look rude, I smile and wave the 'not interested' hand to them, without looking at them.
power bank - hand-carry your power bank. Do not check it in. You can be called in when you are already inside the plane to go all the way to the loading dock so you can personally remove the power bank...and chances are, you'll have to surrender it to them. And you might delay the plane departure!