Coming Out of Covid Lockdown Chiang Mai has been resuming normalcy from the Covid lockdown. Events are back and people are beginning to come out. Yoga in the Park is now daily. Chiang Mai Blues Band is now gigging at My Bar and Thaphae East. I saw old friends who managed to stay intact during the lockdown. Some were stuck somewhere else awaiting for Thailand's borders to open up again. The first order of the day was to let old friends know I was back. I've already invited a few for a catch-up at Nawa Saraan or just around the bend at EM16 Bar. Often, I would reconnect with them at Yoga in the Park where I do my daily practice
PEOPLESCAPE(chronological)
Mike With the pandemic, Mike closed 3 of his 4 hotels, including Nawa Saraan, the hotel I was managing before I left to escape the burning season. Despite that, he still allowed me to stay at this place - in one of the luxurious guest rooms at that. What a guy! With no hotel guest duties, this plush hotel has become a home - together with its lush garden and café setting. With no hotel revenue, I was a liability on the balance sheet. But still, when I offered him money from yoga proceeds, he wouldn't take it. He has always looked after my well-being, but now that he's hurting, I feel helpless not knowing what to do to make things better for him. I'm profoundly grateful to this magnificent guy - whenever anything good happens to me in Chiang Mai, I simply whisper to myself, "Thank you Mike".
China Girl Upon arrival in Chiang Mai at the Red Arcade Bus Terminal, I bumped into China Girl - a Chinese hotel guest who was also stranded with me in Nong Khai at Mut Mee Guesthouse. We spent a good amount of time talking and sharing at Mut Mee. She left a month earlier than me when a bus for Rayong became available. I thought I've seen the last of her. What are the odds I'd bump into her here in Chiang Mai? She was just en route to return to China via Chiang Mai. I invited her to leave her stuff at Nawa Saraan and take a shower while awaiting her flight. We had a few more moments together before she left off to catch her plane. That was a pleasant treat.
Marina Brazen Travel Thoughts Wanting to reach out to friends, I invited Marina to join me for a coldie at EM16 Bar, just across the corner. She was still the same lovely Marina. I've attended her Sunday Yoga in the Park. She does this while teaching swimming in addition to her regular English teaching job. Yep, she's a busy girl who treads the conscious path. She's one of the few I would feel comfortable with to message on short-notice for coffee and grubs.
Anna With her shaven head, I mistook Anna for a nun when I met her at yoga in the park. She was stranded in a meditation center for 4 months and practically lived the life of a nun. We shared many things about yoga and meditation. We had coffee and bread at Nawa Saraan (my first guest since I came back) and saw each other more at yoga. She also introduced me to some of her friends who also got stranded at the meditation center, one of whom decided to be a fulltime nun. Collectively, I saw all of us as a monastic crew (yes, I am a self-proclaimed Cyber Monk).
Alan & Nicola Alan:+❤ HeartMath SA|Ecstatic Dance Nicola:Nicola Symons Yoga
Ah, the dynamic duo, who perhaps are the two I'm most comfortable with. They're deepening their roots in Chiang Mai and have moved to a better shire. Their house-blessing was a gathering of intimate friends who celebrated through a cacao ritual, mandala circle, ecstatic dance and wholesome vegan food. We hung out at Saraan for Hippie Night and chilled to live music at My Secret Cafe. Alan was my first podcast interview. He remains busy coaching coaches for Heart Math while Nicola keeps to her evolving Kundalini Yoga and her regular job. I would say the 3 of us are fairly aggressive in our practice - reading, researching, pushing boundaries and biohacking to find out what lies beyond. I wonder who'll be the first one to walk on water...LOL!!!
Ying Ying's Thai Massage Courses
Sore from the max-out daily yoga in the park, I asked Ying if she was free to give me a massage. I've defaulted to her since she did a Tok Sen Massage on me last year. She stopped by Nawa Saraan and gave me a good full-body Thai massage. We were talking the entire time. I prepared bread for our post-massage catch-up, but she had to rush out to catch her 2pm appointment. Asked how much I should pay her, she said it was "on the house" - I couldn't persuade her to take my money. Whoa!
Nick Nick's FB posts were my barometer to what's happening in Chiang Mai during the entire Covid pandemic - from empty streets to a slow resurgence of activities and events. I bumped into him and his girlfriend at Chiang Mai Gate which led to a bread/coffee catch-up at Nawa Saraan. An interesting guy with fresh ideas and chutzpah to wit, it was good to get together and get a glimpse of his take on this post-Covid scenario for Chiang Mai.
Christine Chiang Mai is full of beautiful ladies but none so beautiful they make up my Top 2. With her movie-star looks, Christine is one such. Who is the other one? I knew you would ask. I thought Christine was long gone from Chiang Mai so it was a pleasant surprise seeing her on the yoga mat one morning at the park. It didn't even feel like there was a 5-month gap or a falling-out. We were just glad to see each other again. This was followed by coffee and bread with long lazy talks about yoga, the new-normal, her post-PhD, Chiang Mai as home, and career. We continue to hang out whenever it's possible. She was at Hippie Night as well.
Shereen It was instant rapport and connection meeting Shereen at Alan and Nicola's house blessing. An Egyptian with a Masters in Couple Relationship, I picked tirelessly into her take on human dynamics. Like most of the invitees, she's on to the path - a shift from the corporate path to one of pursuing bliss. Predictably, there's less money but it's more fulfilling. Like the ending in the Casablanca movie, it seemed like a "start of a beautiful friendship".
Brit She has an aversion to pictures so no photo here. And she seems particular with her privacy too, so no name. Why do I even want to write about her then? Well, 20 years down the road, I won't even know she ever existed if I don't make an effort to write about her.
She has that X-factor about her. That's the first thing I noticed about her at the yoga place. There's nothing imposing about her, but you notice her - even if she hasn't uttered a word yet. We eventually got acquainted. I was curious and engaged, so I invited her to my usual coffee/bread indulgence for a getting-to-know-you tete-a tete. She was consistent in saying, "I'd love to, BUT...." - yes, there was always a 'but' until I gave up. And then it just happened spontaneously without planning - she was across the coffee table from me. We talked, shared and traded narratives. Half-aloof, calculating, grounded, charming, smart, confident, alluring, and a woman of dimension, she remained an enigmatic package.
Joanne @inhaledeeplyexhalefully Like me, Joanne comes from the Philippines. She is one of the newest teachers at Yoga in the Park and teaches Tuesdays but quick to fill-in other days when other teachers can't. She also attended all my classes, teaches online yoga and studies Flamenco with Victoria. I call her the Energizer Bunny who simply can't get enough of life. She's newly "conscious" and quite devoted to being on the path with a sense of urgency. Her zeal, dedication and almost single-minded focus on being awake are just inspiring.
Ending Thoughts Peoplescape can be taken for granted in Chiang Mai given its abundance. But back in Nong Khai where I was stranded for 3 months due to the pandemic lockdown, this was rare. There were hardly any travelers and the ex-pats who lived there were old and would rather go to bars and get hammered with the bar girls. The Thais were aloof and distant. I had to download Tinder just to get any kind of social interaction - and even that didn't fare out. I felt stuck in a void. I am now in Chiang Mai with renewed lenses on just how wonderful and vibrant this place is - largely for the people it keeps.
With the visa amnesty extended to Sep 26, I get a new lease on life in Chiang Mai. The borders will soon be opened, new people will be arriving, and the ones stuck here can finally leave. In the meantime, I'll just hold on to this golden moment while I am in the company of these wonderful people. It won't be long before turn of events take a shift for another chapter.
(Sep 30, 2020) Like a revolving door, Chiang Mai's peoplescape continues to revolve bringing-in new arrivals while those who were stranded were finally able to leave. This begins a new chapter in the mosaic making up the faces that adorn Chiang Mai....more »»
(Aug 5, 2020) Manipuraka Chakra resides at the navel. A person at Manipuraka is strong in body and mind. He is a mover and shaker. He dominates and asserts. He also wonders if this is all that life is all about....more »»
Chiang Mai INFORMATION
Chiang Mai Map
Chiang Mai, Thailand
IMPORTANT PLACES
Bus Station Train Station Chiang Mai International Airport Nong Buak Hard Park - free yoga classes daily
HOTEL
Arun Dara Villa - 7 exclusive rooms, 1 swimming pool for every room, grand opening
Nawa Sheeva Hotel - big rooms, high ceiling, salt-water pool, restaurant, cafe
Nawa Saraan Hotel - low density (4 spacious rooms), stone garden setting, Koi fish pond, Old City location
Arun Suite - 3 bedrooms in a 3-storie guesthouse within Old City, ideal for families
MOTORBIKE RENTAL
Tawan Bike - motorcycle rental | +66 91 635 2863 | Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200
Chiang Mai FYI / Tips
crop-burning season in Chiang Mai is between late Feb to early April. But laws change everytime. This year, 2019, there is a 61-day ban on burning so the farmers started burning early. When my plane was approaching Chiang Mai on Jan 24, 2019, there was already a thick blanket of smog covering the entire city (and beyond). But within the city itself, you won't feel it (but that doesn't mean the air is healthy). To monitor air conditions in real time, refer to site: Chiang Mai Air Pollution: Real-time Air Quality Index (AQI)
hot season begins March and lasts until June
wet season begins July and lasts until September
best time to visit Chiang Mai is mid-September to mid-February - after the monsoon and before the burning
you have to try Khao Soi, this is north Thailand's culinary staple
the tourist area where most of the hotels, restaurants, ticket offices, tour operators are, is located in the Old City
to exchange your dollars to Thai Baht, the Super Rich Money Exchange give the best rates. There are many branches scattered around Chiang Mai
get a red cab (songthao) outside the train station for Baht 50 (instead of paying B100 if inside the train station) to Old City - if you haggle nicely enough...I did!
shared red taxi (songthao) - B30 standard fare plying all over Old City
for only B50/day, best to rent a bike to go around the Old City - it's a 2.5km2 with lots to discover
FREE daily yoga classes from 9:00am to 10:15am at Nong Buak Hard Park (southwest corner of Old City). Resident and passing-through teachers take turns conducting yoga classes.
Blues/Jazz Bars in Chiang Mai
North Gate Jazz Coop - at Chang Phueg Gate, great Tuesday jam session, Blues on Sundays at 11pm by the Chiang Mai Blues band
Boy Blues Bar - at the Night Bazaar. Mondays at 9:30pm is open mic
My Secret Cafe - near Wat Phra Singh. Tuesdays at 7:30pm for the changing front-act and 9:00pm for the Panic Band
Taphae East - 88 Thapae Rd. (just north of Night Bazaar). Fridays at 9:30pm by Chiang Mai Blues Band
Chiang Mai Cost Index
B60 Chiang beer
B250 1 hour drop-in yoga session
B200 one hour Thai body massage at WAYA Massage(highly recommended)
B50 noodle soup with meat
B50 coffee
B40 pad thai
B30/kilo wash-only laundry
B50/kilo wash+iron laundry
B100-150 dorm bed/night
B250 fan room/night
B30 internet cafe/hour
B170-190 Movies Sat-Sun and public holidays
B130-150 Movies weekdays
B100 Movies Wednesdays (movie discount day)
B750 1/2 day Thai cooking lessons
B900-1000 1 full day Thai cooking lessons
B400 Muay Thai boxing ticket
B2500 starting room rate at the luxury hotel, Nawa Sheeva(highly recommended)
Transportation
B450 bus, Chiang Mai to Bangkok
B160-180 bus, Chiang Mai to Pai
B1250 bus, Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang
B1650 slow boat, Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang
B210 bus, Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, 3-4 hours
B360 Green VIP bus, Chiang Mai to Mae Sai (Thai border town for visa run to Tachileik, Myanmar)
B50 bicycle rental, 24 hours
B200 motorbike rental, 24 hours
B273 #51 sleeping train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai
Book Online - direct booking with State Railway of Thailand. Best to register first. If going to BKK from CNX, click "Northern Line".
note -- big difference between booking direct with the State Railway and booking with an online 3rd party agent. 12GO was charging B1330 for the same trip that only cost me B941 with the State Railway.
note -- Oct 2022, I took the #10 Train from CNX to BKK, upper berth, 2nd class, a/c, sleeper, B941. The train was clean, fast, comfortable and modern. If you have heavy luggage that will cost more money in flight checkin, I would suggest this train. Otherwise, the flight now is so much cheaper it doesn't even make sense to take the bus or train.
Bangkok to Chiang Mai by Train from Bang Sue Train Station
10:22pm - #51 Train, arrive Chiang Mai 12:10pm, sleeper, 3rd class B270 (non sleeper), 2nd class B438, B728 upper deck, B798 lower deck
Loei to Chiang Mai by Bus
From Loei town center, take a tuk-tuk ride to the bus station, B30. There is only one bus station.
As of June 28, 2020 (still on Covid schedule), there are only 3 night trips: 8:30pm, 9:30pm and 12 midnight. 9 hours, B470.
The bus makes the following stops at the following times from a 9pm Loei departure: Phu Ruea (9:50pm), Phitsanulok (12:40am), Uttradit (2:20am), Lampang (4:35am)
Final bus stop is at the Red Bus Arcade, Chiang Mai, 9 hour-trip, arriving 6am (from 9pm Loei departure).
Take a red songthaew to Old City, B50. They'll try to charge you B100, but they'll take B50 (just assure the driver you won't tell the other passengers).
How to Get a 60-Day Thai Tourist Visa and then Extend by another 30 Days
This process is BEFORE Covid 19. Not sure what it is now.
60-Day Thai Tourist Visa
NOTE: There is no need to go back to your country to get the Thai tourist visa. Any major city with a Thai Embassy will do. Apparently there is also no need to have an invitation from a Thai establishment to justify the visa.
Bring the following to the Thai embassy:
a) proof of money (bank statement will suffice)
b) flight booking to Thailand
c) onward flight back to your country from Thailand
d) filled-in tourist visa form
e) 2 passport pictures
f) hotel booking in Thailand (they didn't ask me for this but better be safe)
g) passport with at least 6 months validity
After handing over all the documents, they will ask you to come pick your passport with the visa the following day from 4 to 5pm. That's it!
NOTE: after 2 successful attempts, I was already questioned the 3rd time.
30-Day Extension
NOTE: When your 60-day visa is close to expiry and you want to extend your stay. No need to leave Thailand.
bring the following to the Immigration Office:
a) passport (make sure your Tourist Visa hasn't expired yet)
b) Baht 1900
c) photocopy of your passport + visa duration date stamp + TM6 card (white immigration card) and sign all the copies
d) completed TM7 visa extension form (available at the Immigration Office)
e) one 4cmx6cm passport picture
submit the above to the Front Desk. They will give you a stub with your number on it. Take a seat and wait for your number to be called
when your number is called, your picture will be taken. Then go back to your seat. They will call you again.
when they call you again, they'll give you your passport with your extended visa. That's it!
when there are no lines, the whole process can take only 10 minutes
arrive early - in case there is a snag (visa snag, documentation snag, transport ticket snag, etc.), you will have ample time to troubleshoot the problem if you arrive early (to the airport, to the bus terminal, etc.)
put detailed itinerary on the Calendar apps of your smart-phone according to timelines - this is where you do all your thinking and planning. Once written down, you don't have to think anymore while you are on the journey...you just follow the steps. This frees your mind for something else that might happen while you are already en route
avoiding scams - as a general rule, I ignore the touts or anyone I don't know who call out to me. The calling comes in many forms - "Hi! Where are you from?", "Excuse me! Excuse me!", "Where are you going?". I don't look them in the eye and I remain non-verbal with them. If you reply to them, you just gave them an 'in' to hound you. In order not to look rude, I smile and wave the 'not interested' hand to them, without looking at them.
power bank - hand-carry your power bank. Do not check it in. You can be called in when you are already inside the plane to go all the way to the loading dock so you can personally remove the power bank...and chances are, you'll have to surrender it to them. And you might delay the plane departure!