Peoplescape What would a beautiful place be like if you don't know anyone? Sure, there are natural wonders - the mountains, the caves, the rivers, etc. There are also culinary offerings, regional specialties and one-off bucket-list dishes to be had. But at the end of the day, it's really the people who leave a lasting mark on you. Here in Chiang Mai, I am blessed to have so many of them.
Mike
Mike With my scheduled departure from Thailand, Mike went out of his way to make my transition easier. He took me to Immigration to get my residency certification in order (took care of the expenses too), replaced my old phone (which also came from him) with a brand new Redmi 10 5G + SIM card + load, wireless Bluetooth speakers, 2 pairs of running shoes, t-shirts, etc. Yes, Christmas came early for me from a Santa named MIKE. He paved the way for me to get a Thai international debit card as a replacement to my dying Canadian credit card. On my last night, he invited me out for a few drinks. He even drove me all the way to the train station. How do I say 'thank you' to all of that?
It won't be soon until I find another guy like Mike. Thanks Mike, you'll always be DA MAN!
Elizabeth Elizabeth is my goodbye-girl. She's said goodbye so many times until she comes back again to Chiang Mai. But this time, it seems for real. She's going to Bali (Indonesia) and I'm packing up for my Thailand departure - Covid visa is no longer available. Even when she comes back, I'm unlikely to be here. Given the sense of urgency, we hangout whenever we can - Tuesday nights at My Secret Cafe where I walk her up to Thapae Gate on her way home, yoga at 1 Nimman, coffee at My Moka, Thursday nights at Paapu House, chill moments at my place, or even just hanging out at a park bench. She gifted me a Siamaya Durian chocolate bar and that resulted in a barter deal with Siamaya Chocolate.
Given our increasing closeness, people think there's something going on between us - but really, it's just friendship. She feels like a well-worn glove that fits just perfectly.
Elizabeth and I stopping by MUG for a coldie and some music
Tom
&
Chunyah
Tom & Chunyah have remained an integral part of my Chiang Mai peoplescape up until my departure. They were the 'usual suspects' in my Wednesday icebaths. They would be the familiar faces across the coffee table at My Moka after the icebath. I would see them both for yoga at 1 Nimman from time to time. When they hosted a gender party for their 'soon to be born', I was invited to join the gathering. When they expressed interest in the hotel where I was staying, I arranged a meeting between them and the owner. When Tom's folks visited Chiang Mai, I was invited to an intimate dinner with them. Even when I'm out of Thailand, I know the bond will remain.
Simona Simona is back in Chiang Mai from a few months in the islands. She's the only one who calls me to say 'Hi' even after emphatically asking her to only call me during an emergency. Moreover, she would even call me on a Wednesday afternoon after telling her I have to get my sleep Wednesday afternoons. But that's Simona. She can get away with it...and she keeps her standing on my short list. Often, we would chill at my place for coffee, bread or pancake while she's waiting for her son to finish some sports activities close by. I'd often bump into her at 1 Nimman yoga and body combat. Sometimes, we go out for coffee elsewhere for a change in scenery. She's my go-to person for a few things - she's reliable and grounded. It's good to have friends like her.
Susan and Patrick Susan and I got into a conversation after a yoga class at 1 Nimman. She thought it would be a good idea if I meet her husband-writer Patrick. They are of my age and I thought it would be good to explore a possible friendship looming on the horizon. We met for Pad Thai at my fav alfresco nook, Ran Joke Pa Lek. It was an engaging conversation mostly about Buddhism, spirituality and life. They'd been together 45 years and they're still vibrant together. I could not discern if their edgy repartee was affectionate banter or a prelude to a quarrel, but they seem to relish on it. I wish I met them earlier.
What's good about people my age is that they have life experience, wisdom and they are grounded. We don't have to explain too much about certain things because we all get it already. And for that matter, I wish I spent my time in Chiang Mai with older (my age) and wiser people who have a firm foundation who have a meaningful story to tell.
In contrast, I've had my share of flaky millenials, deeply disturbed 'conscious' healers, volatile wokes, and young people of questionable mental stability. Looking back, I shake my head thinking, "What the heck was I doing in that petri dish?"
Pad Thai with Susan and Patrick at Ran Joke Pa Lek
Keith Keith is a character. He only attended 2 of my yoga classes but we spent time talking and sharing when off the mat. At 69, he's seen them all...the good, the bad and the ugly. And perhaps learned from them all. But unlike some senior folks I know who became jaded with life, Keith, perhaps due to his meditation background, saw the underlying intelligence behind all things, action and events. It's simply life unraveling the way it was meant to...and not a personal afront against him. Keith is good energy, a happy guy, spritely and perhaps magnanimous to a fault. But that's his charm too.
Returning the Buddha Claim to fame? Keith sourced the origin of a stolen Buddha through some crafty detective work until he finally met the thieves and had the Buddha returned to its rightful temple in Laos. In the process of knowing the history and tradition of Buddha carving, he is probably one of the experts in the field today. He even wrote a book about his Buddha sleuthing adventure. For that 'right action', I'm sure he garnered a lot of merits to skip a few rebirths.
Keith in a yoga class with me
Keith Quotes:
Let us be grateful for what is left We were talking about the gradual erasure of everything that has come before simply through the passage of time. Since Keith and I are no longer spring chickens, we relish the good things from back in our day that still remains today.
Make the fuckÃn' sandwich Used now as a metaphor to 'do the actual work', it was really said by a teacher who received a lot of donation when an article was written about her for making free sandwiches for her poor students. She viewed the donations as a cop-out for using money as a substitute for making the actual work, so she returned all monies and simply said, "make the fuckin' sandwich".
Someone approached me once wanting to have a strong physical heart through yoga because cardiac arrest runs in his family. I suggested a fusion of cardiovascular training (HIIT) together with pranayama and meditation. He wanted only pranayama (breathing) because he didn't want to do the more difficult job of doing the actual workout. I should have told him, "make the fuckin' sandwich".
Movie Night Group Movie Night is an offshoot of the Biohacker group who wanted a more intimate gathering of mems who resonate. It's a monthly viewing at Paolo/Abby's place with their 80" tv screen (almost as big as the wall). It kicked off back in June 4 with Mulan as the pilot movie. Next movie was the Great Lebowski. This movie got critical acclaim so it must have been a great movie - but it didn't make sense to me, so I'll just say, 'I don't get it'. August movie was Captain Fantastic, but the conscious-talk lasted until late and everybody decided to just skip the movie and continue the conversation. It didn't help that I arrived late even though I was at the lobby almost on time. The food sharing was great as well. In short, it was a movie night that was long on food, conversation, sharing and bonding...but no movie - it's like going to an orgy and no one got laid. I'm ok with that as well. Movies I can see in the privacy of my room. But being in the company of amazing people you are comfortable with? Priceless!
Light Consciousness Group
Light Consciousness Group This group was formed by the same couple, Paolo and Abby, who formed the Movie Night Group. The members are essentially the same people from the Movie Night and some mems of Biohacker community. The Biohacker group used to be exclusive to nootropics, gadgets, equipment and wellness protocols. Now, with the addition of Paolo, Abby and Michael, a new spiritual niche is forming. Talks range outside human perception - mysticism, transcendence, different dimensions, esoteric entities, etc.
I've only attended one meeting and had to leave the group soon after. Why? Paolo even echoed my increasing sentiment about spirituality talks and groups. Paolo is the go-to guy for spiritual knowledge. Not very many people can say that they have read 34 boxes of books devoted to the subject matter. With his wealth of knowledge, he said that everything he has learned, no matter how disparate, however conflicting with other teachings, invariably lead to the same goal. What goal? It comes with many names - self-realization, enlightenment, pure consciousness, divine oneness, etc.
My analogy to all these different teachings would be different names to different bodies of water - rivers, streams, canals, tributaties, etc. No matter where they started, no matter how large a volume of water they carry, no matter how fast the water flows...they all invariably empty into the ocean.
For all intents and purposes, I have already found my river - yoga. I am familiar with it and I'm already invested in it for many years. I'll just keep swimming in this river until it takes me where I need to be taken. I'm already self-contained with all the writings of ascendant masters, gurus and rishis. My river is already unfathomable the way it is. I can remain here and take it deeper instead of spreading myself thinner.
In short, I don't have to swim all the rivers, I don't need to ingest 34 boxes of books devoted to other branches of spirituality, and I don't have to join any spiritual group or belong to any spiritual tribe. I don't need to be elsewhere.
As for Paolo and Abby? Bless them for spreading the good word. May their selfless efforts in expanding awareness catalyze this swelling tide into a shift in consciousness.
Ending Thoughts The friends I've kept in the last year have been with me up until I said goodbye. They have proven that friends don't need to be many. I've also proven that you need to filter the people you allow into your sacred space. Some are new acquaintances, but as long as there is no red flag, I don't hold back. I agree with Epicurus that of the 3 things you need in life to be happy, friendship has to be one.
(Jan 24, 2019 - Oct 10, 2022) After nearly 4 years of staying here at the charming Nawa Saraan Hotel, it felt like I would be staying here in Chiang Mai forever. Despite my repeated expectation to leave, Covid-visa extension kept getting extended, 2 months at a time, with every issuance being 'the last'. But finally, Immigration stopped the extension and it came time to say goodbye.....more »»
(Dec 4, 2022) With friends from the Cebu of 'old' being nowhere, I shifted my headspace into a new and different peoplescape...more »»
Chiang Mai INFORMATION
Chiang Mai Map
Chiang Mai, Thailand
IMPORTANT PLACES
Bus Station Train Station Chiang Mai International Airport Nong Buak Hard Park - free yoga classes daily
HOTEL
Arun Dara Villa - 7 exclusive rooms, 1 swimming pool for every room, grand opening
Nawa Sheeva Hotel - big rooms, high ceiling, salt-water pool, restaurant, cafe
Nawa Saraan Hotel - low density (4 spacious rooms), stone garden setting, Koi fish pond, Old City location
Arun Suite - 3 bedrooms in a 3-storie guesthouse within Old City, ideal for families
MOTORBIKE RENTAL
Tawan Bike - motorcycle rental | +66 91 635 2863 | Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200
Chiang Mai FYI / Tips
crop-burning season in Chiang Mai is between late Feb to early April. But laws change everytime. This year, 2019, there is a 61-day ban on burning so the farmers started burning early. When my plane was approaching Chiang Mai on Jan 24, 2019, there was already a thick blanket of smog covering the entire city (and beyond). But within the city itself, you won't feel it (but that doesn't mean the air is healthy). To monitor air conditions in real time, refer to site: Chiang Mai Air Pollution: Real-time Air Quality Index (AQI)
hot season begins March and lasts until June
wet season begins July and lasts until September
best time to visit Chiang Mai is mid-September to mid-February - after the monsoon and before the burning
you have to try Khao Soi, this is north Thailand's culinary staple
the tourist area where most of the hotels, restaurants, ticket offices, tour operators are, is located in the Old City
to exchange your dollars to Thai Baht, the Super Rich Money Exchange give the best rates. There are many branches scattered around Chiang Mai
get a red cab (songthao) outside the train station for Baht 50 (instead of paying B100 if inside the train station) to Old City - if you haggle nicely enough...I did!
shared red taxi (songthao) - B30 standard fare plying all over Old City
for only B50/day, best to rent a bike to go around the Old City - it's a 2.5km2 with lots to discover
FREE daily yoga classes from 9:00am to 10:15am at Nong Buak Hard Park (southwest corner of Old City). Resident and passing-through teachers take turns conducting yoga classes.
Blues/Jazz Bars in Chiang Mai
North Gate Jazz Coop - at Chang Phueg Gate, great Tuesday jam session, Blues on Sundays at 11pm by the Chiang Mai Blues band
Boy Blues Bar - at the Night Bazaar. Mondays at 9:30pm is open mic
My Secret Cafe - near Wat Phra Singh. Tuesdays at 7:30pm for the changing front-act and 9:00pm for the Panic Band
Taphae East - 88 Thapae Rd. (just north of Night Bazaar). Fridays at 9:30pm by Chiang Mai Blues Band
Chiang Mai Cost Index
B60 Chiang beer
B250 1 hour drop-in yoga session
B200 one hour Thai body massage at WAYA Massage(highly recommended)
B50 noodle soup with meat
B50 coffee
B40 pad thai
B30/kilo wash-only laundry
B50/kilo wash+iron laundry
B100-150 dorm bed/night
B250 fan room/night
B30 internet cafe/hour
B170-190 Movies Sat-Sun and public holidays
B130-150 Movies weekdays
B100 Movies Wednesdays (movie discount day)
B750 1/2 day Thai cooking lessons
B900-1000 1 full day Thai cooking lessons
B400 Muay Thai boxing ticket
B2500 starting room rate at the luxury hotel, Nawa Sheeva(highly recommended)
Transportation
B450 bus, Chiang Mai to Bangkok
B160-180 bus, Chiang Mai to Pai
B1250 bus, Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang
B1650 slow boat, Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang
B210 bus, Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, 3-4 hours
B360 Green VIP bus, Chiang Mai to Mae Sai (Thai border town for visa run to Tachileik, Myanmar)
B50 bicycle rental, 24 hours
B200 motorbike rental, 24 hours
B273 #51 sleeping train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai
Book Online - direct booking with State Railway of Thailand. Best to register first. If going to BKK from CNX, click "Northern Line".
note -- big difference between booking direct with the State Railway and booking with an online 3rd party agent. 12GO was charging B1330 for the same trip that only cost me B941 with the State Railway.
note -- Oct 2022, I took the #10 Train from CNX to BKK, upper berth, 2nd class, a/c, sleeper, B941. The train was clean, fast, comfortable and modern. If you have heavy luggage that will cost more money in flight checkin, I would suggest this train. Otherwise, the flight now is so much cheaper it doesn't even make sense to take the bus or train.
Bangkok to Chiang Mai by Train from Bang Sue Train Station
10:22pm - #51 Train, arrive Chiang Mai 12:10pm, sleeper, 3rd class B270 (non sleeper), 2nd class B438, B728 upper deck, B798 lower deck
Loei to Chiang Mai by Bus
From Loei town center, take a tuk-tuk ride to the bus station, B30. There is only one bus station.
As of June 28, 2020 (still on Covid schedule), there are only 3 night trips: 8:30pm, 9:30pm and 12 midnight. 9 hours, B470.
The bus makes the following stops at the following times from a 9pm Loei departure: Phu Ruea (9:50pm), Phitsanulok (12:40am), Uttradit (2:20am), Lampang (4:35am)
Final bus stop is at the Red Bus Arcade, Chiang Mai, 9 hour-trip, arriving 6am (from 9pm Loei departure).
Take a red songthaew to Old City, B50. They'll try to charge you B100, but they'll take B50 (just assure the driver you won't tell the other passengers).
How to Get a 60-Day Thai Tourist Visa and then Extend by another 30 Days
This process is BEFORE Covid 19. Not sure what it is now.
60-Day Thai Tourist Visa
NOTE: There is no need to go back to your country to get the Thai tourist visa. Any major city with a Thai Embassy will do. Apparently there is also no need to have an invitation from a Thai establishment to justify the visa.
Bring the following to the Thai embassy:
a) proof of money (bank statement will suffice)
b) flight booking to Thailand
c) onward flight back to your country from Thailand
d) filled-in tourist visa form
e) 2 passport pictures
f) hotel booking in Thailand (they didn't ask me for this but better be safe)
g) passport with at least 6 months validity
After handing over all the documents, they will ask you to come pick your passport with the visa the following day from 4 to 5pm. That's it!
NOTE: after 2 successful attempts, I was already questioned the 3rd time.
30-Day Extension
NOTE: When your 60-day visa is close to expiry and you want to extend your stay. No need to leave Thailand.
bring the following to the Immigration Office:
a) passport (make sure your Tourist Visa hasn't expired yet)
b) Baht 1900
c) photocopy of your passport + visa duration date stamp + TM6 card (white immigration card) and sign all the copies
d) completed TM7 visa extension form (available at the Immigration Office)
e) one 4cmx6cm passport picture
submit the above to the Front Desk. They will give you a stub with your number on it. Take a seat and wait for your number to be called
when your number is called, your picture will be taken. Then go back to your seat. They will call you again.
when they call you again, they'll give you your passport with your extended visa. That's it!
when there are no lines, the whole process can take only 10 minutes
arrive early - in case there is a snag (visa snag, documentation snag, transport ticket snag, etc.), you will have ample time to troubleshoot the problem if you arrive early (to the airport, to the bus terminal, etc.)
put detailed itinerary on the Calendar apps of your smart-phone according to timelines - this is where you do all your thinking and planning. Once written down, you don't have to think anymore while you are on the journey...you just follow the steps. This frees your mind for something else that might happen while you are already en route
avoiding scams - as a general rule, I ignore the touts or anyone I don't know who call out to me. The calling comes in many forms - "Hi! Where are you from?", "Excuse me! Excuse me!", "Where are you going?". I don't look them in the eye and I remain non-verbal with them. If you reply to them, you just gave them an 'in' to hound you. In order not to look rude, I smile and wave the 'not interested' hand to them, without looking at them.
power bank - hand-carry your power bank. Do not check it in. You can be called in when you are already inside the plane to go all the way to the loading dock so you can personally remove the power bank...and chances are, you'll have to surrender it to them. And you might delay the plane departure!