4 Memorable Years Since Jan 2, 2019, except for occassional visa-runs and Covid stranding in Nong Khai, Chiang Mai has been home - my oasis, my paradise, my Shangrila. These last 4 years felt like a lifetime of abundance, introspection, evolution, growth and an unexpected transformational struggle. But like everything else, it cannot last forever. I had to tie up loose ends and brace myself for the next chapter.
I've always been aware that my stay in Thailand will come to an end at some point - I didn't harbor any delusional 'forever after'. I'm always grateful to have had this amazing experience in Chiang Mai with the wonderful Thais and amazing friends who remained with me.
Thai Immigration Despite my repeated notice to leave, Covid-visa kept getting extended, 2 months at a time, with every issuance being 'the last' - so there was no way to make long-term plans. But finally, Immigration stopped the extension in Aug 25, and saying "goodbye" became a rude awakening.
A Feeling of Heaviness As a general rule, I don't get attached to people, places or things. I'd been traveling homeless for nearly 10 years now and detachment has been a part of my landscape as impermanence is imposed upon me.
Chiang Mai is an exception. When Mike offered me to be the soul of Nawa Saraan, I thought I'd stay here for just a few months until my visa-runs are stopped by Immigration. But Covid struck and I was pleasantly 'stranded' in Thailand, first at Nong Khai for 3 months (there was no transport available) until I finally inched my way back to Chiang Mai. I grew roots here and there is a heaviness in my heart with my leaving - even though moving-on made perfect sense.
I could opt for a visa-run again like I used to, but even that is no longer allowed by Immigration. Besides, I feel too tired to be doing that again. It's best that I look far and wide to see what awaits me outside this comfort zone.
Nawa Saraan Hotel After nearly 4 years of blissful residency here in this charming boutique hotel, Mike decided to hand it over to the landlord by end of Oct. It makes sense. He has been paying rent for nearly 2 years while the hotel remained closed. This means I'll be homeless by end of October. Do I renew my visa and rent a place somewhere? or do I simply pack up and leave Thailand? The latter doesn't sound as bleak given that the world is now relaxing from the travel restrictions imposed by Covid. The choice became academic.
Yoga Classes
Mid-August was a little strange. From an abundance of doing 8 classes/week with 4 students, it came down to one class and then no class. It got me time to catch up on other things instead of feeling rushed to prepare customized class sequences and lectures for every student in every class. I actually welcomed the break.
Fortunately, I saved enough money for my eventual departure from Thailand. In hindsight, maybe that is the point of the classes - my universe wouldn't allow me to leave Thailand and start a new life elsewhere with just Baht 100 ($3). When I had enough, the classes ended - either my students got busy, got injured (an old injury) or moved away. True to form, my benevolent universe only gives me exactly what I need - nothing less and nothing more. Additionally, it only gives me what I need when I need it.
But beyond my needs, I also feel that my classes were timely for my students at the time they were having them. My classes were not just Upward Dogs but understanding the universe, human nature and the role we play. When they are grounded on this, many confusing things begin to make sense.
Peaks and Valleys in Chiang Mai I could almost squeeze in a few lifetimes in the nearly 4 years I've stayed. The highs were dizzying with abundance coming out of my ears. The lows were painful and unpleasant. But I feel that I needed to go through all of that and see how my practice can measure up. It was my litmus test. The perpetrators were just toy soldiers playing a role they were given. If I fail (by seeking retribution), I know I'd be going through that same shit all over again in my next life...and next life, until I finally get it. I believe in the law of karma. It makes sense to me and I subscribe to it.
Magic in Chiang Mai As the world turned upside-down with Covid, Chiang Mai remained resilient. Life quietly resumed normalcy as the bars opened up again for live music and the walking markets welcomed the arriving tourists.
Chiang Mai is blessed with so many wonderful things we almost take for granted. Food is cheap, delicious and can be had on every corner. Khao Soi, the northern Thai regional thick yellow curry soup, recently voted as the #1 best-tasting soup in the world by TasteAtlas, can be had for less than $2.
Nightly, there is always live music happening from jazz to blues with first-rate musicians - Mondays at Boy Blues Bar, Tuesdays at My Secret Cafe, Thursdays at Paapu House, Saturdays at My Bar, Sundays at North Gate Jazz Coop.
Everyone, foreigners or locals, is just a smile away. Your stuff in still where you left it when you come back. Healers and healing modalities abound. The comforting energy wraps around the city like a bubble - and indeed, I've always felt that Chiang Mai is in a bubble.
I can go on and on about the magic of Chiang Mai, but I think I've made my point clear enough. Chiang Mai! What a magical place.
sabay-sabay in Chiang Mai
Ending Thoughts In Burningman, the MAN remained with me long after I left the playa. The MAN still burns inside me and it will always do. Chiang Mai is no different. Wherever I end up, Chiang Mai will always be inside me. My deeply rooted gratitude (and not a day passes by without me saying this) to Mike, Nawa Saraan, Chiang Mai, Thailand, and to my benevolent Universe (yes, in that order).
Suzi (Oct 14, 2022) Bon voyage, G. Here's to new beginnings
Max (Oct 14, 2022) Think I remember that you’re flying out today. Thank you for everything! Have a safe flight and I will hopefully see you in the Phillipines very soon!
Rumi (Oct 14, 2022) Good day Gigit! I am glad that you have arrived safely. I am very grateful to have met you and we wish you all the best. You are a very exceptional person and so inspiring. Thxs so much 🙏 I would be very happy if we meet again ❤ Elizabeth (Oct 14, 2022) Safe travels!
Michael (Oct 14, 2022) We will miss you Gigit, happy trails to you...
Senaida (Oct 14, 2022) Hi GiGit! I already felt the emptiness in Chiang Mai. I am grateful to have met you and we will meet again 🙏🙏❤ Carolina (Oct 14, 2022) I hope our paths cross again!! We keep in touch!! Take care!!
Max (Oct 14, 2022) Oh wow, you did go ahead and leave! Exciting times, my friend. Thank you for the times we spent together, Gigit!
Katherine (Oct 14, 2022) Hey, GiGit. It was magical to meet you. I wish you happy journeys. And see you someday somewhere in the world! Much love
Paolo PAOLO F. TIBERI (.com) (Oct 13, 2022) Good morning Git, you will be missed. Let us know where you end up, we might come and visit. We plan to travel Asia once a few of the projects we are working on are finalized. Take care my friend!
Simona (Oct 13, 2022) I miss you!!! I was so sad when I saw you last time and very sad to say goodbye. I just hope that I and Johan will ever go somewhere again and can go to see you.
Tom Tom Maher (Oct 13, 2022) Gi Git, have a safe flight to the Philippines! It’s been such a pleasure to meet you and spend time with you here in CM. So many good times around yoga, coffee, ice baths, blues bars, and everything else over the past couple of years. We’ll miss spending our Wednesdays with you, but hope to meet again down the road. Until next time my friend!
Jason Ryer Zen Strength (Oct 9, 2022) Wishing you all the best my friend, let me know how it goes.
Kris (Oct 3, 2022) Good luck in the next relocation! I'm curious where life will take you.
(Oct 11-13, 2022) En route to the Philippines from Chiang Mai, I had to take the train to Bangkok to catch my flight. I thought I'd stay a couple of nights. It won't be too soon until I see Bangkok again...more »»
(Dec 23, 2022) In 2 days, it's uncanny that I stumbled upon 2 lives believed by many to be immortals - Mahavatar Babaji and Count St. Germain. I didn't seek them out but their stories landed on my lap. Hmmm...what's the underlying hint here?..more »»
Chiang Mai INFORMATION
Chiang Mai Map
Chiang Mai, Thailand
IMPORTANT PLACES
Bus Station Train Station Chiang Mai International Airport Nong Buak Hard Park - free yoga classes daily
HOTEL
Arun Dara Villa - 7 exclusive rooms, 1 swimming pool for every room, grand opening
Nawa Sheeva Hotel - big rooms, high ceiling, salt-water pool, restaurant, cafe
Nawa Saraan Hotel - low density (4 spacious rooms), stone garden setting, Koi fish pond, Old City location
Arun Suite - 3 bedrooms in a 3-storie guesthouse within Old City, ideal for families
MOTORBIKE RENTAL
Tawan Bike - motorcycle rental | +66 91 635 2863 | Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200
Chiang Mai FYI / Tips
crop-burning season in Chiang Mai is between late Feb to early April. But laws change everytime. This year, 2019, there is a 61-day ban on burning so the farmers started burning early. When my plane was approaching Chiang Mai on Jan 24, 2019, there was already a thick blanket of smog covering the entire city (and beyond). But within the city itself, you won't feel it (but that doesn't mean the air is healthy). To monitor air conditions in real time, refer to site: Chiang Mai Air Pollution: Real-time Air Quality Index (AQI)
hot season begins March and lasts until June
wet season begins July and lasts until September
best time to visit Chiang Mai is mid-September to mid-February - after the monsoon and before the burning
you have to try Khao Soi, this is north Thailand's culinary staple
the tourist area where most of the hotels, restaurants, ticket offices, tour operators are, is located in the Old City
to exchange your dollars to Thai Baht, the Super Rich Money Exchange give the best rates. There are many branches scattered around Chiang Mai
get a red cab (songthao) outside the train station for Baht 50 (instead of paying B100 if inside the train station) to Old City - if you haggle nicely enough...I did!
shared red taxi (songthao) - B30 standard fare plying all over Old City
for only B50/day, best to rent a bike to go around the Old City - it's a 2.5km2 with lots to discover
FREE daily yoga classes from 9:00am to 10:15am at Nong Buak Hard Park (southwest corner of Old City). Resident and passing-through teachers take turns conducting yoga classes.
Blues/Jazz Bars in Chiang Mai
North Gate Jazz Coop - at Chang Phueg Gate, great Tuesday jam session, Blues on Sundays at 11pm by the Chiang Mai Blues band
Boy Blues Bar - at the Night Bazaar. Mondays at 9:30pm is open mic
My Secret Cafe - near Wat Phra Singh. Tuesdays at 7:30pm for the changing front-act and 9:00pm for the Panic Band
Taphae East - 88 Thapae Rd. (just north of Night Bazaar). Fridays at 9:30pm by Chiang Mai Blues Band
Chiang Mai Cost Index
B60 Chiang beer
B250 1 hour drop-in yoga session
B200 one hour Thai body massage at WAYA Massage(highly recommended)
B50 noodle soup with meat
B50 coffee
B40 pad thai
B30/kilo wash-only laundry
B50/kilo wash+iron laundry
B100-150 dorm bed/night
B250 fan room/night
B30 internet cafe/hour
B170-190 Movies Sat-Sun and public holidays
B130-150 Movies weekdays
B100 Movies Wednesdays (movie discount day)
B750 1/2 day Thai cooking lessons
B900-1000 1 full day Thai cooking lessons
B400 Muay Thai boxing ticket
B2500 starting room rate at the luxury hotel, Nawa Sheeva(highly recommended)
Transportation
B450 bus, Chiang Mai to Bangkok
B160-180 bus, Chiang Mai to Pai
B1250 bus, Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang
B1650 slow boat, Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang
B210 bus, Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, 3-4 hours
B360 Green VIP bus, Chiang Mai to Mae Sai (Thai border town for visa run to Tachileik, Myanmar)
B50 bicycle rental, 24 hours
B200 motorbike rental, 24 hours
B273 #51 sleeping train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai
Book Online - direct booking with State Railway of Thailand. Best to register first. If going to BKK from CNX, click "Northern Line".
note -- big difference between booking direct with the State Railway and booking with an online 3rd party agent. 12GO was charging B1330 for the same trip that only cost me B941 with the State Railway.
note -- Oct 2022, I took the #10 Train from CNX to BKK, upper berth, 2nd class, a/c, sleeper, B941. The train was clean, fast, comfortable and modern. If you have heavy luggage that will cost more money in flight checkin, I would suggest this train. Otherwise, the flight now is so much cheaper it doesn't even make sense to take the bus or train.
Bangkok to Chiang Mai by Train from Bang Sue Train Station
10:22pm - #51 Train, arrive Chiang Mai 12:10pm, sleeper, 3rd class B270 (non sleeper), 2nd class B438, B728 upper deck, B798 lower deck
Loei to Chiang Mai by Bus
From Loei town center, take a tuk-tuk ride to the bus station, B30. There is only one bus station.
As of June 28, 2020 (still on Covid schedule), there are only 3 night trips: 8:30pm, 9:30pm and 12 midnight. 9 hours, B470.
The bus makes the following stops at the following times from a 9pm Loei departure: Phu Ruea (9:50pm), Phitsanulok (12:40am), Uttradit (2:20am), Lampang (4:35am)
Final bus stop is at the Red Bus Arcade, Chiang Mai, 9 hour-trip, arriving 6am (from 9pm Loei departure).
Take a red songthaew to Old City, B50. They'll try to charge you B100, but they'll take B50 (just assure the driver you won't tell the other passengers).
How to Get a 60-Day Thai Tourist Visa and then Extend by another 30 Days
This process is BEFORE Covid 19. Not sure what it is now.
60-Day Thai Tourist Visa
NOTE: There is no need to go back to your country to get the Thai tourist visa. Any major city with a Thai Embassy will do. Apparently there is also no need to have an invitation from a Thai establishment to justify the visa.
Bring the following to the Thai embassy:
a) proof of money (bank statement will suffice)
b) flight booking to Thailand
c) onward flight back to your country from Thailand
d) filled-in tourist visa form
e) 2 passport pictures
f) hotel booking in Thailand (they didn't ask me for this but better be safe)
g) passport with at least 6 months validity
After handing over all the documents, they will ask you to come pick your passport with the visa the following day from 4 to 5pm. That's it!
NOTE: after 2 successful attempts, I was already questioned the 3rd time.
30-Day Extension
NOTE: When your 60-day visa is close to expiry and you want to extend your stay. No need to leave Thailand.
bring the following to the Immigration Office:
a) passport (make sure your Tourist Visa hasn't expired yet)
b) Baht 1900
c) photocopy of your passport + visa duration date stamp + TM6 card (white immigration card) and sign all the copies
d) completed TM7 visa extension form (available at the Immigration Office)
e) one 4cmx6cm passport picture
submit the above to the Front Desk. They will give you a stub with your number on it. Take a seat and wait for your number to be called
when your number is called, your picture will be taken. Then go back to your seat. They will call you again.
when they call you again, they'll give you your passport with your extended visa. That's it!
when there are no lines, the whole process can take only 10 minutes
arrive early - in case there is a snag (visa snag, documentation snag, transport ticket snag, etc.), you will have ample time to troubleshoot the problem if you arrive early (to the airport, to the bus terminal, etc.)
put detailed itinerary on the Calendar apps of your smart-phone according to timelines - this is where you do all your thinking and planning. Once written down, you don't have to think anymore while you are on the journey...you just follow the steps. This frees your mind for something else that might happen while you are already en route
avoiding scams - as a general rule, I ignore the touts or anyone I don't know who call out to me. The calling comes in many forms - "Hi! Where are you from?", "Excuse me! Excuse me!", "Where are you going?". I don't look them in the eye and I remain non-verbal with them. If you reply to them, you just gave them an 'in' to hound you. In order not to look rude, I smile and wave the 'not interested' hand to them, without looking at them.
power bank - hand-carry your power bank. Do not check it in. You can be called in when you are already inside the plane to go all the way to the loading dock so you can personally remove the power bank...and chances are, you'll have to surrender it to them. And you might delay the plane departure!