Dec 4, 2022
Food in Cebu
Location : Cebu City, Philippines
Cebu's One-of-a-Kind
Cebu (or the Philippines for that matter), isn't known for food (compared to Thailand or Vietnam), but there are one-ofs that are simply a gem and not to be missed. It may take some asking around with the locals on what is 'not to be missed'. At some point, you come to a concensus. While Cebu City is the convergence of all these regional specialties, still the local towns pride themselves in being the original and being the best - e.g. lechon in Carcar.
Moreover, the best dishes really are the ones served in homes where time-honed traditions have perfected a recipe that has been passed on through generations - e.g. the family that owns Hostel 7 Cebu has been in the food business for years and when they prepare a banquet for friends (picture below), it becomes obvious they know what they're doing.
Lechon (in Carcar)
Cebu has always been known for its lechon, even though lechon can be had anywhere in the Philippines. Cebu prides that its lechon is already infused with flavor that lechon sauce is no longer needed. Its reputation exploded when Anthony Bourdain remarked, "best pig ever" in his global hit tv show, No Reservations.
Hands down, the best lechon and the most affordable lechon can be had at the Carcar Public Market, about an hour's bus ride south from Cebu City. At the market, they have a whole section offering lechon only. I've had lechon several times in Cebu City and chicharon in Carcar in a bus (en route to Moalboal) but I haven't really made a food trip to Carcar for lechon alone. When that happens, I'll update this blog.
Itchoy's Batchoyan (near Vicente Sotto Hospital)
The best one-ofs would have to be an obscure local carinderia that shot to fame because of good food. The acid test is when you see rich people eating there. Rich people won't be caught dead eating in a low-end place. One such place is Itchoy's Batchoyan. I'd been there a few times and so far, everything I ordered hit the spot. It's always inviting to come back to taste the rest of what's on the menu. It has been featured in food tv shows and food magazines. It fact, it was a rich guy who recommended me to that place. Given its popularity, they polished the place a bit, so you can say it's now an upscale carinderia***.
*** An upscale carinderia is a precarious tight-wire act on the chasm of cheap carinderia and a pricey restaurant. It's as sparsely populated as being yakapmates (bordering on that narrow and volatile spectrum between friends and lovers, neither belonging in either but spanning both worlds). Few have attempted, but fewer still have succeeded.
Linarang (at the Pasil Fish Market)
Linarang is a popular thick fish stew with tomatoes, green mangoes, and black beans. It has its origin at the fish market in Pasil. The sidewalk eating stalls by the fish market offer the freshest and best tasting of them all. serving times vary, some saying as early as 3am, but when I went there, Larang was still being cooked and won't be ready by 7am (pictured below). I have had Linarang near Fuente Osmena and one in Pasil. Initially, I thought it would be similar to the Bouillabaise of Marseille, France. But Larang is actually a sour soup that is best taken when it's still piping hot from the wok. The many types of Larang are named after the fish used in the broth - e.g. Jack Larang for Jack fish (mamsa).
Entoy's Bakasihan (in Cordova)
To be honest again, I haven't been, but this place is strongly recommended by locals. It's just too far and too many rides from where I am to get there.
Ending Thoughts
Food in Cebu will always be a work-in-progress because it's impossible to know where all the good spots are. Even with Larang, with so many eating places serving it, the only reliable way to know who's best is to try as much of them as possible.
--- Gigit (TheLoneRider)
YOGA by Gigit
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Next story:
Lazi Fiesta
(May 15, 2023) Like most fiestas in the Philippines, Lazi's fiesta is over the top - you drown in food. Not to be outdone, the house where I stay had its whole pig roasted on a spit (lechon)...more »»
More on Cebu City:
About Cebu City
- Cebu City is the 2nd biggest city in the Philippine (next to Manila) - and it continues to build and expand. Traffic is getting bad. Decentralization is being developed with the SM Super Mall in the SRP south and the suburban towns in the north.
- Boat from the airport to the city center - even without traffic, it takes about 4 rides to reach the city. But with Cebu's increasing traffic congestion, it has become a nightmare. Instead of taking the land route, take the water route - no traffic, fresher air and cheaper. From the airport, take the yellow multi-cab straight to the river port and take the ferry (there's only one destination) to the city. Take the 02B jeep and get off at UC near Jones - you're now on the city's main artery.
- given its size and increasing congestion, Cebu really needs a mass railway system - something that is conspicuously lacking, but no one seems to complain about
- Cebu is bursting at the seams on the yoga scene. There are about 20 yoga centers in the city - from yoga studios to gyms offering yoga and hotels jumping on the bandwagon
- a trendy and safe place in Cebu where you can chillout for coffee and enjoy good eats would be at the Ayala Mall
- there are other pocket-areas for trendy hangouts - Banila Town Center, Crossroads, Escario Plaza, La Vie, etc.
- the tourist area where most of the budget hotels and restaurants are, are located within the Mango area, although it has a seedy belly feel. Kids may swarm on you pretending to be begging, but they could be picking your pocket or your backpack pockets - be careful
- many pick-pockets in the Colon area - be careful
Cebu City Google Map
Cebu City, Philippines
- Tops - hilltop offering panoramic view of the city
- Taoist Temple - temple on a hillslope in Lahug with panoramic view of the city
- Hostel Seven Cebu - newly opened, resto/bar, central location, solo/group travellers
Juana Osmeña Street, Cebu City - S Hotel & Residences - new hotel, luxury rooms, central location
827 M. Velez corner Andres Abellana St.
- Fujinoya - new and refreshing twists to Western style desserts using Japanese techniques
Wilson St., Lahug, Cebu City - tel. 888.6075 - Bad Boys Wingz - Buffalo Wings, unique versions of sauces! Great service, accommodating staff, bad boys vibe
Kasambagan, Cebu City | (032) 415 4811
- Love Yoga World - yoga studio
11/fl, Skyrise 2 Tower, IT Park, Lahug, Cebu City - Yoga Now - first Yoga and Wellness studio in Mactan offering daily Yoga Classes
at The Yacht Club Mactan
- Cebu Mountain Bike Adventure - MTB tours, bike sales and repairs. Bed and Breakfast + Resto Cafe + wifi
1298-b V.Rama Ave, Guadalupe, Cebu City | 0942.959.7451
Cebu City to Ormoc by boat
- SUPERCAT - 3 hours, 5:30 am | 9:00 am | 12:30 pm | 4:00 pm
Business Class: Regular 1500, Student 1,200, Senior/PWD 1,071
Tourist (Aircon) & Economy (Non-aircon): Regular 1100, Student 880, Senior/PWD 785 - OCEANJET - 3 hours, 5:00 am | 6:00 am | 9:30 am | 12:00 pm |1:00 pm | 4:30 pm
Open-Air (OA) 1100, Tourist Class (TC) 1100, Business Class (BC) 1600
Cebu City to Bantayan Island
The best and fastest way is by Ceres Bus at the North Bus Terminal, adjacent to SM City. The bus takes 4.5 hours going north until it reaches Hagnaya Port. From there, you pay the ferry company separately. The bus boards the ferry until it reaches Sante Fe Port (1.5 hours) in Bantayan Island. From Santa Fe, the bus goes to Bantayan Poblacion and then to Madridejos.
Ceres Bus - PHP 260 (to Santa Fe), 4.5 hours to Hagnaya Port + 1.5 hours by ferry.
Schedule: according to the dispatcher, trips begin at 6 pm (this arrives Hagnaya around 10:30 pm but the first ferry leaves at 1 am...that's a 2.5-hour wait at the port), leaving every hour until 1 pm the following day (I speculate that 1 pm is the last trip to avoid rush hour traffic along Consolacion). This doesn't match the ferry schedule so the bus simply waits until a ferry departs. e.g. the 6 pm trip arrives 10:30 pm and waits for the 1 am ferry. The last trip, 1 pm, arrives 5:30 pm, in time for the ferry's last trip.
Bus arrives at terminal 30 mins before departure. Luggages are P150/pc if no passenger.
Alternatively, you can get off the bus at Hagnaya Port and take the ferry independently. There are 2 ferry companies:
Super Shuttle Ferry
PHP 359 + 25 Terminal fee, 1.5 hours
Island Shipping
PHP 350 + 25 Terminal fee, 1.5 hours
Cebu City to Dumaguete
Cebu City to Dumaguete by Boat
- George and Peter Lines - Mon/Thur/Sat/Sun 10pm, (035)225.4337, 0922.557.1023
- Oceanjet - via Tagbilaran, daily 6am, dumticketing@oceanjet.net, 0918.898.2188
- Cokaliong - Mon/Tue/Wed/Thur/Fri/Sat 7pm, Sun 12pm, 6 hours, (035)225.3599
Cebu City to Dumaguete via Liloan (bus, boat, jeep, tricycle)
- Cebu City South Terminal - take the southbound Ceres bus to Liloan, P200, 5 hours
- Liloan - the bus drops you off at the Liloan Port where you board the Fastcraft to Sibulan, Negros Oriental, P62, 30 mins
- Sibulan - at the Sibulan Port, the jeeps wait for Fastcraft passengers to take them to the public market in Dumaguete, P12, 30 mins.
- Public Market - at the market, you can take any tricycle to your hotel, P8 for short trips
Cebu City to Tagbilaran, Bohol
Cebu City to Tagbilaran, Bohol
- Weesam Express - Pier 4, departs 9:00 AM, 2:00 PM, 6:30 PM, 2 hours
one way: Economy (aircon) P500.00, Economy (non-aircon) P400.00, First Class P600.00
round trip promo (at least 2 days advance booking): Economy (aircon) P600, Economy(non-aircon) P500, First Class P1200
round trip promo (1 day or on the day booking): Economy (aircon) P800, Economy (non-aircon) P700, First Class P1200 - Ocean Jet - Pier 1, departs 6-7-8-9:20-10:40-11:40AM, 1-2-4:20-6:35PM, 2 hours
Open Air / Tourist Class P800, Business Class P1000
+63 932 8734 885 / +63 922 8572 300 - SuperCat (2GO) - Pier 1, departs 08:15-13:30-15:10-18:00-19:40
P 500.00
+63 32 233 7000 - Lite Ferries - Pier 1, departs daily 12:30pm, 10:00pm and 1:00pm (Mon, Wed, Sat)
Standard (Lying) Php 150, Tourist (Lying Aircon) Php 340
+63 977.822.5483 / +63 998.999.5483 / +63 925.347.5483 / (032)255-1721 to 26 / (032)414-9001 to 03
info@liteferries.com.ph / www.liteferry.com
Cebu City to Siquijor by Boat, via Tagbilaran
Cebu City to Siquijor, via Tagbilaran
- Lite Ferries - Pier 1, departs M/W/SAT at 1:00pm, 10 hours, economy Php 649 (through barkota.com), layover in Tagbilaran 5:45pm-8:00pm, arrives Larena Port, Siquijor at 11:00pm
+63 977.822.5483 / +63 998.999.5483 / +63 925.347.5483 / (032)255-1721 to 26 / (032)414-9001 to 03
info@liteferries.com / www.liteferry.com - Ocean Jet - Pier 1, departs daily at 1pm, 5 hours
Open Air P1600
+63 932 8734 885 / +63 922 8572 300
Cebu City to Siquijor by Bus, via Liloan (Santander)
(as of Jan 2023)Sugbo Urban
There is only one bus plying this route - Sugbo Urban. Tourist class coach, a/c, comfortable, Sun-Fri (these dates keep changing). P420 for bus, P275 for ferry to Liloan. Leaves Cebu City (South Bus Terminal) at 8 pm (Sundays 1 am), heads south to Liloan (Santander), takes the ferry to Larena Port, Siquijor, docks around 5 am, makes a clockwise roundtrip around Siquijor Island - Larena, Enrique Villanueva, Maria, Lazi (stops at Lazi market for breakfast and leaves 6:50 am), San Juan, Siquijor (arrives 8am, P50 from Lazi to Siquijor Poblacion) and catches the 1pm ferry at Larena Port for Liloan, Cebu and resumes its land route. Arrives Cebu City 10 pm.
Sugbo Urban is the cheapest and most convenient way because when it reaches Larena Port (Siquijor), it continues its trip around the island (clockwise) along the circumferential road, passing through - Enrique Villanueva, Maria, Lazi, San Juan, Siquijor...and back to Larena. It spares you the cost of hiring a tricycle or habal-habal which charges exhorbitant fares. Besides, it's a long trip to the other side of the island to be taking by tricycle.
This is also the slowest. The bus arrives Liloan Port around 12:30 am but the ferry leaves 2:30 am (2 hours of waiting time). The ferry trip is a slow 4 hours (this should only take 1.5 hours with Montenegro or Alesson), arriving Larena around 6:30 am. This 4 hour voyage offers no comfortable sleeping - you stay upright on your seat or sleep on the floor on a cardboard. The boat waiting/voyage takes 6 hours. Altogether, the entire trip takes 11.5 hours until the bus reaches Lazi.
Cebu City to Camotes Island
Cebu City to Camotes Islands
- via Poro - from Pier One in Cebu City, take the Ocean Jet for Poro, 2 hours, daily trip - 6am and 3pm (0936.823.8762 |0956.270.6610 | 0999.889.9999).
- via Consuelo - from Cebu City, take the northbound bus passing through Danao and get off at the Danao Port. At the Port, take a Jomalia Shipping boat for Consuelo (San Francisco, Camotes), P220/pax, a/c, 2 hours, daily trip - 5:30am, 7:00am (special trip), 8:30am, 12:00 noon (express), 2:30pm, 5:30pm and 9:00pm (express, Fri/Sat/Sun only).
Camotes Islands to Cebu City
- Poro - Cebu City (fastest and most direct) - go to Poro and take the 8am or 5pm Ocean Jet to Pier One in Cebu City, P380/pax/aircon, 2 hours
- Consuelo - Danao - Cebu City - go to Consuelo (San Francisco) and take the Jomalia Shipping boat to Danao, P220/pax, a/c, 2 hours, daily trip - 5:30am, 7:00am (special trip), 8:30am, 12:00 noon (express), 2:30pm, 5:30pm and 9:00pm (express, Fri/Sat/Sun only). From Danao, take the Ceres Bus to Cebu City
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Suggested Destinations in Cebu
- Camotes Islands - caves, beaches
- Cebu City - rich in culture and history, 2nd largest city in the Philippines
- Moalboal - amazing coral reef system, sardine bowl, deep drop-off for freediving
- Oslob - Butanding (whale shark) watching
- Bantayan Island - long stretch of fine white sand beach, Virgin Island for snorkeling
- Malapascua Island - divers' paradise for seeing the rare Thresher Shark
- Cantabaco Cave - Toledo
- Barile Waterfalls - Barile
- Whale Shark Tour - Oslob
- Carcar - chicharon and lechon in public market
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