Siquijor Hub Siquijor is a hub in Central Visayas where neighboring islands are just an hour away by boat - Dumaguete, Tagbilaran, Dapitan, Cebu. Why not Dumaguete for an overnight change in scene? It's been 7 years since.
Reminiscing Dumaguete Dumaguete holds a special place in my heart. This is the first place I chose when I decided to leave Manila for good in April 2010 and make a life in a place I had yet to find. I landed in Dumaguete not knowing anyone, not knowing the place and not even knowing where to spend the night. It was during my stay here when I climbed Mount Talinis with the Cuernos de Negros, where I was one of the models for the body painting event, here where I was a victim of a hit-and-run driver, here where I had a tv interview with Dumaguete beauty and celebrity, Aesha. It was also with Aesha that we participated in the Eco Adventure Race 2010. Yes, Dumaguete is all that and more. By the time I left this lovely place, I had already stayed 2 years.
Lazi, Siquijor to Dumaguete by Jeep, Boat and Bicycle I practically took all modes of transport from my place until Dumaguete. First, I took a public jeep, then the boat, and upon disembarking, I assembled my bike, put my small backpack on my bike basket and rode away. As I was riding away, I saw my fellow passengers still lugging their heavy backpacks while some were still negotiating with the tricycle drivers.
I swear, traveling with a folding bike opens up worlds!
Urich In Dumaguete, I wanted to see 4 people, Urich being one of them, simply because he made a comment on an earlier post. Lo and behold, as soon as I left the port on my bicycle, I heard my name yelled out. It was Urich who chanced on seeing me while on his motorcycle. What are the odds?
We catched-up (caught-up? awkward!) over coffee and sans-rival at Dumaguete's famous Sans Rival Cafe. It was a good share and exchange. I don't remember our past conversation to be at this level. He has become aware and taken positive steps to evolve his consciousness.
coffee with Urich at Sans Rival
The Boulevard Initially controversial, the expansion of the Boulevard by reclaiming land has come to a completion with most of the locals promenading and enjoying the latest addition to their cityscape. A program was held during my one night there where Dumaguete's champions - singing, dancing, etc., showed their masterpiece on stage. The event was festive, wholesome and family-centered. Had I not been told, I wouldn't have imagined the project to be controversial.
Dumaguete's expanded Boulevard at night
My 2 cents? Before, the Boulevard was just a wide walkway for a promenade. Now, the Boulevard has transformed into a park. Kudos, Dumaguete! I am reminded of the Eiffel Tower. No one wanted it, when completed, the Parisians thought it was an eyesore, but now, it's their pride and joy.
Budbud Cabog at the Painitan Dumaguete is unique because it is only here where I can buy Budbud Cabog - instead of sticky rice being steamed inside a rolled banana leaf, it's bird seeds collected from the mountains. It's hard work to bring it down to the city as the mountain people bring it on heavy sacks on their shoulders. No wonder it's also 3x more expensive than the regular budbud pilit (the sticky rice).
And the only place to savor this delicacy is at the Painitan inside Dumaguete's public market. The vendors have their stalls lined up on a specific stretch of the market to sell the budbuds (pilit, cabog and Tanjay [mixed with chocolate]), sikwate (local cacao drink) and puto maya (steamed sticky rice w/o the banana leaf).
Ending Thoughts While other destinations are still slowly recovering from the plandemic, Dumaguete seems to be going full-throttle already. There is optimism in the air and people seem to be upbeat and already moving on. Can't wait to make another visit...hopefully, sooner rather than later.
(Feb 5, 2023) Being in Dumaguete means I pay a visit to my beloved Valencia on the slope of Mount Talinis. I heard that its Sunday Market is now famous and a popular itinerary to locals and tourists...more »»
(July 21-23, 2023) I needed to do some errands in Dumaguete and I needed a break from Siquijor. Despite the continuous rain, I braved the sea voyage with my folding bike. Turns out I needed to buy more than I planned...more »»
More on Dumaguete:
Dumaguete Travel Tips
Airport to City
The town proper is a very short ride from the airport with jeeps and tricycles plying the route. If you don't have luggage, instead of cabbing it from the airport or chartering a van (there will be lots of vendors hawking this service), walk outside the airport into the main road and flag down a jeep or tricycle. Fare is only P8.00
Hotel Essencia - 9-storie hotel in the heart of Dumaguete
39 Real St., Corner San Juan St., Dumaguete City - 09°18'32.1"N 123°18'20.3"E
scuba diving
Mario Scuba Diving and Homestay - homestay in Apo Island, scuba diving, restaurant
Apo Island - 09°04'40.08"N 123°16'09.19"E
Dumaguete Divers - scuba diving in Apo Island, resto / cafe, accommodation
Dauin - 9°11'18.6"N 123°15'54.3"E
cafe
Arteasan Handcrafted Beverages - coffee, tea, milk tea, frappes, waffles, sandwiches
79 San Juan St., Dumaguete City - 9°18'33.0"N 123°18'21.0"E
Dumaguete >> Cebu City by bus/boat
Dumaguete to Cebu City route is done by bus and boat. Ceres bus leaves almost every hour from the Ceres Terminal bound for Cebu City. It goes to Tampi and boards a roro until it reaches Bato, Cebu. From there, it resumes its land travel until Cebu City. 7 hours, PHP xxx.
Dumaguete >> Siquijor (Siquijor Proper & Larena Port) Boat Trips(as of Jan 2023)
Montenegro Lines - at Dumaguete Port, P234.00/pax, P169/bicycle
Aleson Shipping - at Dumaguete Port, 8 am and 6 pm daily, 10 am M-Sat, Regular P200.00/pax, Aircon P250.00/pax
Please check first if Atlantis Yohan Express is back in operations
Atlantis Yohan Express - Siquijor Port or Larena Port?
Dumaguete >> Lazi, Siquijor by boat
Dumaguete to Lazi, Siquijor route by Kho Shipping was just opened up in early September 2023. Before, going to Lazi meant going to Siquijor Proper first, then catching the 2pm jeep to Lazi (last trip), adding 1 hour on the trip. Now, Siquijor Proper can be completely bypassed.
Dumaguete Port - take Kho Shipping to Lazi, Tu-F-Sun, 3 hours, Dumaguete departure 1 am, arrival in Lazi Port 4 am, economy P300, tourist P500.
Dumaguete ItineraryThings to Eat in Dumaguete:
Eat at Neva's Pizza. They have a wood-burning stove and make the best pizza in Dumaguete
Eat the local version of Tempura, fish ball, balut at Tempurahan, an adhoc outdoor section by the City Port entrance.
Eat Paklay, a local delicacy made of pork inards. Popular in Dumaguete's roadside eating places
Forest Camp in Valencia - a mountain resort fed by the Banica River. Great for getting wet and picnics (blog by Lakwatsero)
Go to the Japanese Shrine and Casaroro Falls - 100 meter falls and site of a fierce WWII battle between Japanese, Americans and Filipinos
Head out to Camp Lookout in Valencia for great views. Famous writers stay there for the Silliman University National Writers Workshop.
Stop by The World War II Museum in Valencia and talk to curator/owner/collector, Constantino "Tantin" Cata-al.
Splash on Pulangbato Falls and Hot Spring - via Palinpinon road towards PNOC. Great to dip-in after a day's hike or for hot lazy days
Climb Mt. Talinis. At 1864 meters, it lords over Negros Oriental, and home to endemic and rare species of flora and fauna.
Dauin
Dive on Apo Island - best for scuba and turtle watching
Dive on Dauin's District 1 Marine Reserve - best spot for snorkelling - 10K grouper, turtles, cuttlefish, Titan Triggerfish, etc. This is only one of many marine reserves dotting the Dauin coastline.
These are the nearest popular destinations from Dumaguete by boat
Bohol - Bohol is an island northeast Dumaguete. Tourist attractions are Chocolate Hills, Tarsier Monkey, Loboc River Cruise, Beaches of Panglao, whale sharks (recent offering), freediving (recent offering)
Cebu - Cebu City is the usual gateway into the Visayas. But in Cebu Island itself, there are many offerings - Whale Sharks of Oslob, sardine run at Moalboal,Thresher Shark of Malapascua
Dapitan (Zamboanga del Norte) - I haven't been there but a lot of island ferries ply this port. There must be something here.