First-timer in Dumaguete

Location : Dumaguete, Negros Oriental, Philippines

The Green Light
I should have left Manila earlier for Bohol. But the plane left without me. Yes, I was late. That hasn't happened before. Now, in hindsight, perhaps is was better that way. I had some unfinished business in Manila that needed resolution. Now that that's settled, I was free to leave. Besides, unsolicited signs were all there - my skip rope that I'd been using for 6 years just snapped...and 2 more, but now I forget. My benevolent universe was paving a way for my departure. I like that. It inspires confidence (I'm fatalistic when it serves my purpose).

Always a Nomad
While it was my plan to start life all over again after Manila, I had no clear destination about where to settle. In fact, I'm still conflicted about "settling down". Perhaps, I just stay in one place long enough until it gets old...then move on to another place that calls out. At least, that's the ideal picture.

Dumaguete! Dumaguete!
As for Dumaguete, I just told myself I'll take the first cheap plane out of Manila...and Cebu Pacific came up with a Dumaguete seat sale. Although I haven't been to this place, nor know of anyone here, nor a definite place I could lodge for the night, I was somehow consoled by the fact that I only hear good things about Dumaguete...the land of gentle people. It enjoys a university flavor much like UP since there are various universities here, Silliman University topping the list. From the map, it's very handy. It's close to other significant destinations - Cebu, Siquijor, Camiguin and Bohol. I'm just about an hour away from these lovely places. How cool is that?

Dumaguete's boardwalk is famous for its sunset and promenaders

A Roof Over My Head
First things first. A lodging place...a cheap lodging place. Lonely Planet's cheapest option was Vintage Inn at P242/night...that's a little too rich for me. I draw the line at P150/night (common baths, fan room, etc.). Ideally, I should find a monthly place to lower my cost...maybe somewhere like P3K monthly...max. Maybe I could find that soon, but I needed a place to crash for the night. Fortunately, after asking around, I found Aldea Lodge for P180/night - right in the heart of the city. I can live with that if only for a few days. Actually I slept there for 2 nights before I found a room for P1500/month, plus P100 for an electric fan....cool!

Chillax
Now that the roof-over-my-head issue was addressed, I can chillax and roam more leisurely around the city.

Movies
The one thing I really appreciate about traveling outside Manila is that everything else costs cheaper. Movies here at the newly constructed mall, Robinson's Plaza is only P100. Compare that to P170 in Manila. I can even watch a movie everyday...if only there were enough choices. My first movie was Clash of the Titans. For P100, I won't bitch too much about how it fails in comparison to the 1981 classic. My second movie was The Book of Eli...another apocalyptic sojourn about keeping the Holy Book from being used as a weapon...nice movie, but not exactly life-altering.

Silliman University Anthropology Museum
Since it was close by, I stopped by the Silliman University Anthropology Museum (P25 admission). It had 3 floors of artifacts from around the country - Chinese vases, medicinal herbs and plants, witchcraft gadgetry, ancient day-to-day utensils, boat coffins, fish traps, etc. It's not very extensive though. No picture taking on the 2nd floor.

Silliman University Marine Laboratory
Next stop was the Silliman University Marine Laboratory - a short tricycle ride going north along the coastline. Visually, they had 2 marine aquariums (home-type size). On the breeding tanks, I saw baby clams...soon to be giant clams. The rest of the displays were mostly writings about their work and advocacy. Since marine conservation is close to my heart, I asked for an audience with the program director (without an appointment of course). Her first words were, "I'm terribly busy...you have 5 minutes". It extended beyond that as I offered to update their dated website. It's good that I can also be useful to the community.

Board Walk
The favorite pastime for everyone here is really the board walk along the nearly 1 kilometer stretch of Rizal Blvd. If you've been to the Bay Walk along Roxas Blvd, it's something very similar to that. Except that here, people don't seem to be rushed. They take their time. Vendors are not aggressive, no pan handlers, no street kids begging, maybe a bum or two caught up by the parade of people. On the other side of the street are rows upon rows of restaurants, hotels and bars...lots of elderly foreigners with young lasses. Life seems to go smoothly, unperturbed.

Ending Thoughts
I've barely scratched the surface of Dumaguete. Every new acquaintance brings promise of getting to know not just the friendly people of Dumaguete but of the city itself. It's a cultural experience - best eats, best kept secret places, local heroes we never learned about, challenges the city face in this growing migratory pattern within the Visayas, etc. The future looks bright.

--- Gigit (TheLoneRider)
YOGA by Gigit | Learn English | Travel like a Nomad | Donation Bank

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More on Dumaguete:

Dumaguete Map

Dumaguete, Philippines

tourist attractions

• Filipino Japanese Amity Memorial Shrine - 2175 feet above sea level and perched on a hilltop overlooking the sea and the neighboring islands
• Casaroro Falls - pencil-narrow waterfall dropping nearly 100 feet to a wide and deep lagoon
• Balinsasayao Twin Lakes - twin crater lakes 894 meters above sea level
• Dumaguete Boulevard - 1km long boardwalk along the main hub of Dumaguete

- hotel

• Hotel Essencia - 9-storie hotel in the heart of Dumaguete
  39 Real St., Corner San Juan St., Dumaguete City - 09°18'32.1"N 123°18'20.3"E

scuba diving

• Mario Scuba Diving and Homestay - homestay in Apo Island, scuba diving, restaurant
  Apo Island - 09°04'40.08"N 123°16'09.19"E
• Dumaguete Divers - scuba diving in Apo Island, resto / cafe, accommodation
  Dauin - 9°11'18.6"N 123°15'54.3"E

cafe

• Arteasan Handcrafted Beverages - coffee, tea, milk tea, frappes, waffles, sandwiches
  79 San Juan St., Dumaguete City - 9°18'33.0"N 123°18'21.0"E

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Dumaguete >> Cebu City by bus/boat

Dumaguete to Cebu City route is done by bus and boat. Ceres bus leaves almost every hour from the Ceres Terminal bound for Cebu City. It goes to Tampi and boards a roro until it reaches Bato, Cebu. From there, it resumes its land travel until Cebu City. 7 hours, PHP xxx.

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Dumaguete Itinerary

Things to Eat in Dumaguete:

• Eat at Neva's Pizza. They have a wood-burning stove and make the best pizza in Dumaguete
• Eat the local version of Tempura, fish ball, balut at Tempurahan, an adhoc outdoor section by the City Port entrance.
• Eat Paklay, a local delicacy made of pork inards. Popular in Dumaguete's roadside eating places
• Try any of the lechon manok (chicken roasted on a spit) that's scattered all over the city
• Try the torta bread (bread made with fermented coconut nectar) - you find that along the highway in Dauin...or the Dumaguete Public Market
• Eat the breakfast combo - Budbud Cabog (Dumaguete's specialty suman) or puto + tsokolate (sticky rice wrapped in banana leaf + native chocolate drink)

Things to Do in Dumaguete:

• Stroll along The Boulevard
• Taka a tour of Silliman University

Sightseeing / Activities Near Dumaguete:

1. Valencia
   1. Forest Camp in Valencia - a mountain resort fed by the Banica River. Great for getting wet and picnics (blog by Lakwatsero)
   2. Go to the Japanese Shrine and Casaroro Falls - 100 meter falls and site of a fierce WWII battle between Japanese, Americans and Filipinos
   3. Head out to Camp Lookout in Valencia for great views. Famous writers stay there for the Silliman University National Writers Workshop.
   4. Stop by The World War II Museum in Valencia and talk to curator/owner/collector, Constantino "Tantin" Cata-al.
   5. Splash on Pulangbato Falls and Hot Spring - via Palinpinon road towards PNOC. Great to dip-in after a day's hike or for hot lazy days
   6. Climb Mt. Talinis. At 1864 meters, it lords over Negros Oriental, and home to endemic and rare species of flora and fauna.
2. Dauin
   1. Dive on Apo Island - best for scuba and turtle watching
   2. Dive on Dauin's District 1 Marine Reserve - best spot for snorkelling - 10K grouper, turtles, cuttlefish, Titan Triggerfish, etc. This is only one of many marine reserves dotting the Dauin coastline.
   3. Soak in Baslay Hot Spring
3. Sibulan
   Go to Balinsasayao Twin Lakes - two lakes almost 1000 meters above sea level
4. Siquijor
   Take the ferry to Siquijor - stay in Siquijor overnight
5. Zamboanguita
   Visit Malatapay Market on a Wednesday and try their lechon, tuba, and grilled fish
6. Bais
   Go dolphin watching and swim on the sandbar
7. Mabinay
   Rappel down Mabinay Caves
8. Siaton
   Experience Lake Balanan

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