Jan 6-24, 2019
Exploring the Culinary Specialties of Hanoi
Location: Hanoi, Vietnam
Pho is by far, Hanoi's runaway bestseller. Nearly every street corner offers Pho. I've tried a few popular joints, the Pho Gia Tuyen, Pho 10 and Pho Suong where you always see a long line. Verdict? Sorry to say, but it didn't wow me. They were all very good Pho, but perhaps Pho is such a perfected dish in Hanoi that only marginal gains can be had by the good shops. Every Pho vendor serves excellent Pho in the face of stiff competition. The Pho benchmark is simply high to begin with.
Noodle Soup Dishes
Pho is not a noodle soup dish monopoly in Hanoi - there are so many with names I can't even pronounce. And they are all very good no matter what the price is. Bun Cha, a grilled pork noodle soup is also very popular and perhaps the most touristy-priced dish (I was trapped at 90k VND). Me? I stumbled-upon a decent Bun Moc (noodle soup with pork balls and veggies) at only 20k VND in a stall that only opens at night. I find it to be just as satisfying as the more expensive Pho (I saw a 120k VND price tag at Pho 10), so why bother to pay more?
Perhaps the only thing that kept me from trying out all those mouth-watering food was the absence of a price tag. Even if I ask for the price first, there is no telling if I was given a local price or tourist price. And I get the feeling the vendors don't want to be asked about price. One of them even dismissed me when I asked for the price. I'm a budget traveler and I'd rather not pay more than what the locals pay. I often just walk away. If I see a price tag and a long line of locals, it's my sure fire to line-up as well.
Overall, I believe the main attraction of Hanoi aside from its street culture is its food culture. It is simply not possible to have bad food in Hanoi. I would put Hanoi (actually, all of Vietnam), all of Thailand and Penang (Malaysia) to be the gastronomic ground-zero for great food in South East Asia. Every food choice is a good choice. You cannot go wrong.
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(Jan 25, 2019) Pungko-pungko! hehe, I miss the food there
(Jan 25, 2019) yes, ha-ha, pungko-pungko with lots of mint and basil leaves 🙂
(Jan 25, 2019) Nice!! Anything we HAVE to try? We'll be in Hanoi in a few days!
(Jan 25, 2019) Here's a special map I developed for a hotel client - this includes the walking tour of Old Quarter and the most famous food stops. Enjoy Hanoi !!!
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Next stop: Peoplescape of Hanoi
Hanoi (city), Vietnam
27 Bat Dat Str, Hanoi, Vietnam
- Hanoi, the Third Time Around Jul 27 - Aug 1, 2019
- 18-Day Mini-Life in Hanoi Jan 6-24, 2019
- Cafescape of Hanoi's Old Quarter, Vietnam Jan 6-24, 2019
- Peoplescape of Hanoi Jan 6-24, 2019
- Exploring the Culinary Specialties of Hanoi Jan 6-24, 2019
- Ca Tru Hanoi at the Dinh Kim Ngan Temple Jan 18, 2019
- Hanoi Food Tour with Harry Jan 16, 2019
- Hanoi Revisited Jan 6, 2019
- Exploring the Northern Capital of Vietnam - Hanoi Jan 4-7, 2015
Noi Bai International Airport (HAN) to Old Quarter, Hanoi by Bus
The airport is about 30kms away from the Old Quarter so it could be pricey if you cab it. For budget travelers, there is the air-conditioned tourist bus #86 which starts from inside the airport when you walk out the door and takes you all the way to Old Quarter for only VND35k, 30 mins.
NOTE: if you use Google Maps, it will tell you that you have to walk 1km to catch the #86 bus along the main road - this is wrong!
FYI / Tips
- Hanoi's Old Quarter is the backpacker area like Bangkok's Khaosan Road. The tourist establishments (hotels, restos, travel/tour agencies, cafes) are interspersed with local traditional businesses
- Grab XeOm or moto taxis are abundant
- street culture is alive and kicking at the Old Quarter. Family-owned and managed shophouses who have been doing their trade for generations are still around. Old Quarter hasn't been touched by shopping malls yet.
- best place to exchange foreign currency is with the jewelry/gold shops (see list on map). Worst place are the tour shops/hotels.
- BEWARE of resto tourist traps. Usually, they sell only one meal like Bun Cha. No menu, no prices. They are crafty in herding unsuspecting tourists (you will notice no local eats there) and serve them the Bun Cha without asking them (because it's the only thing they sell). You'll just be jolted when you receive the bill. I was had for VND 90k!
Things to do, Places to go in Hanoi
- Old Quarter - this is old Hanoi where family-owned business flourished with its specialty trade. The streets are narrow and busy. Nowadays, it's the center for backpackers visiting Hanoi
- lakes - Hanoi is littered with many big lakes, some of them have numerous pagodas along its bank. West Lake is the largest with an 18km circumference, ideal for joggers, hobby fishing and just finding quiet time
- Tran Quoc Pagoda - the oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi lying on its peninsula by West Lake
- Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum - it's a massive marble structure housed inside an expansive park with manicured gardens
Vietnam FYI / Tips / Dos and Don'ts
- Hanoi Grapevine HCMC Update - for the latest events in Vietnam
- Vietnam establishments will not accept US dollars, unlike Cambodia. You have to use Vietnam Dong (US$1 = Vietnam Dong VND 23,255 = Php 53.20 as of Aug 1, 2016)
- Vietnamese smokers will smoke in air-conditioned establishments, air-conditioned buses packed with people including women, children and babies. They also smoke inside hospitals with no smoking signs.
- Vietnam ranks almost the same as Thailand and Cambodia for cheap price. Laos, Myanmar and Malaysia cost more
- internet speed is generally fast and reliable but during important events like Tet holiday, election, etc., it slows down
- Vietnamese generally do not speak or understand much English. It will be a challenge.
- best to dress appropriately, not revealing too much skin (Saigon is an exception - the ladies there set the trend in very short shorts)
- remove your shoes when entering a home or place of worship
- ask first before taking someone's picture. If they say no, don't persist or offer money
- best to carry your hotel's business card with you when going out. You can just show it to the cab driver or XeOm driver if they don't understand English
- leave your valuables, passport, travel tickets, etc. with the hotel's safety deposit box
- when lying down, don't point your feet or the soles of your shoes to anyone or to a family altar
- carry only enough cash for your needs that day
- don't lose your temper in public - Vietnamese people are warm, generous and polite. They look down on people who lose their composure
- don't take pictures of military installations - you can go to jail
- refrain from taking videos of minority people until permitted to do so
Lesser-Known Vietnam Destinations
- Phu Yen Province - by the beach
- Hoa Binh Lake - locals' alternative to Halong Bay
- Ninh Binh - Trang An Grottoes, Tam Coc, Mua Caves, Bai Dinh Pagoda, Van Long Nature Reserve
General Travel Tips
- arrive early - in case there is a snag (visa snag, documentation snag, transport ticket snag, etc.), you will have ample time to troubleshoot the problem if you arrive early (to the airport, to the bus terminal, etc.)
- put detailed itinerary on the Calendar apps of your smart-phone according to timelines - this is where you do all your thinking and planning. Once written down, you don't have to think anymore while you are on the journey...you just follow the steps. This frees your mind for something else that might happen while you are already en route
- avoiding scams - as a general rule, I ignore the touts or anyone I don't know who call out to me. The calling comes in many forms - "Hi! Where are you from?", "Excuse me! Excuse me!", "Where are you going?". I don't look them in the eye and I remain non-verbal with them. If you reply to them, you just gave them an 'in' to hound you. In order not to look rude, I smile and wave the 'not interested' hand to them, without looking at them.
- power bank - hand-carry your power bank. Do not check it in. You can be called in when you are already inside the plane to go all the way to the loading dock so you can personally remove the power bank...and chances are, you'll have to surrender it to them. And you might delay the plane departure!
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