Border Crossing - Mae Sai (Thailand) to Tachileik (Myanmar)

Location: Maesai, Thailand

Twilight Zone
The Mae Sai (Thailand) - Tachileik (Myanmar) border is at the northern-most tip of Thailand, close to the Golden Triangle where the borders of Laos, Myanmar and Thailand meet. Crossing it is perhaps the weirdest border I ever crossed. It is an official border that does not register on the radar - because you can cross it w/o your passport being stamped (before). Standard border rules do not apply here. It's like the Twilight Zone of all border crossings.

Border Research
Having been aggravated by border crossings, I did my research this time. I was able to buy a bus ticket at the Green Bus ticket office within the Old City instead of riding the red taxi to the Arcade Bus Terminal 3 in Chiang Mai. Giving myself a little comfort, I chose to add B100 in order to get the wider VIP seats on the air-conditioned bus. I even prepared for the cold overhead a/c so I brought my hiking hat with me. At Mae Sai, I knew how to get to the red taxi to get to the border, paying the fixed B15. All that convenience made the half-day research worth its while. I thought this was the most painless border crossing yet. But my research didn't prepare me for what's to happen next.

Border Crossing - Mae Sai (Thailand) to Tachileik (Myanmar)

Thai Exit Border
Upon surrendering my passport to the Thai Immigration, something hit a snag. A supervisor was called upon to review my case. What case? I was departing on the day my visa was expiring. I wasn't overstaying, and I never did.

Visa Run
The supervisor said I was doing a visa run and it was unacceptable. He said I maxed-out my stay and now I was leaving the border to come back and have another set of 14 days. I argued that I stayed 14 days because I was allowed 14 days! Where was the violation? I also said that it won't be a visa-run because I wouldn't be coming back to Thailand the same day or the following day - I was going to max-out the 14 days I will be given in Myanmar. I told him that I keep coming back to Thailand because they have a beautiful country (and I was telling him the truth) - what's wrong with that? He would only repeat himself that I was doing a visa run and that I should show proof of onward flight! I said I haven't decided where to go from Thailand after I return, let alone show proof of onward flight. He further stressed that I should have applied for a proper tourist visa, instead of a transit visa-on-arrival. We reached an impasse. What he was telling me was contrary to the research I've done (apparently, the rules have changed again).

Onward Flight
The only way he would allow me to exit was to show proof of an onward flight. Unplanned, I had to book a return flight to somewhere. I looked for a cafe with wifi to book a flight and later had to search for a printing shop to print the flight booking. I was pressed against time since the border would close at 5pm. I didn't want to have to spend a night in Mae Sai. Luckily, I had everything accomplished. The Immigration Supervisor thank me for my effort. He was a smart guy and realized how illogical the situation was. But his hands were also tied - policy is policy. He said the law has always been there but not enforced until last year after an explosion rocked Bangkok! I was finally allowed to exit and cross the bridge separating Thailand from Myanmar.

Myanmar Entry Border
It was another challenge dealing with Myanmar Immigration. It seemed everybody was uptight on this border crossing. Myanmar Immigration told me that upon entering the country, my travel is restricted to Tachileik and Kengtung only - I could not go beyond. Furthermore, my only exit point was the same border. They kept my passport and issued me an "Entry Permit" card. I would have to surrender this permit card upon my exit from Myanmar in order to get my passport back. In addition, they demanded payment of B500. I protested, citing Asean agreement, that citizens of member countries are exempt from paying visa fees. They just ignored me. It was "pay" or "stay in Thailand". I paid. With that, I was able to enter the country. 2 days later, I learned that there was an additional $3/day fee for staying in Tachileik!

Why the Mae Sai (Thailand) to Tachileik (Myanmar) border crossing is unusual:

• usually, immigration officers don't give you a hard time if you are leaving the country within your visa permit. In this border, Thai Immigration questioned why I maximized my legal stay of 14 days in Thailand, even though I was allowed because that is what they gave me! I asked them to point out exactly what my violation was since I have not broken any law. They considered it a visa-run and therefore, suspect. I told them it wasn't a visa run because I would stay 14 days in Myanmar before I return to Thailand. It was no use.
• Thai Immigration was very strict about my onward flight on the way back to this border from Tachileik. They required an onward flight. I had to book mine on the spot to gain exit!
• in exiting this border to Myanmar, the only way out of Myanmar is also through this border - back to Thailand and no other country, so the Thai Immigration regards this as a visa run to extend stay in Thailand

• instead of stamping your passport upon entry, you have to leave them your passport. You are given an "Entry Permit" stating the number of days you can stay in Myanmar. You present this permit upon exit from Myanmar to get your visa. This applies even if you are from an Asean member country.
• when you enter this border, you are only allowed to go to two areas in Myanmar - Tachileik and Kengtung. No travel outside these two places are allowed.
• you only exit Myanmar on this same border - nowhere else! (or you don't get your passport back)
• you have to pay B500 to Myanmar Immigration upon entering. This applies even if you are from an Asean member country which should exempt you from paying entry into a member country
• my research on the internet said Myanmar Immigration levies a Ryat 10,000 for every day of stay in Tachileik. I went to Immigration to confirm this and was told the levy was only $3/day. My hotel also confirmed it's a $3/day levy. However, upon exit, they didn't ask me for any payment for the 2 days I stayed in Tachileik! Weird.

Ending Thoughts
Despite my research, my assumptions didn't hold up. According to some Thais and Burmese I talked to, the rules keep changing, even they get confused sometimes. To me, when crossing a border, always expect the unexpected. At least, I was able to leave Thailand on time and got to cross the border. Now, I'm also curious what Tachileik holds for me.

--- TheLoneRider
YOGA by Gigit | Learn English | Travel like a Nomad | Donation Bank

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Next stop: 2 Days in Tachileik, Myanmar

Border Crossing Stories

1. Mae Sot (Thailand) - Myawaddy (Myanmar) Border Crossing Jan 23, 2020
2. Visa-Run to Tachileik, Myanmar Sep 28, 2019
3. Border Crossing - Mae Sai (Thailand) to Tachileik (Myanmar) Apr 23, 2016
4. Border Crossing from Siem Reap (Cambodia) to Bangkok (Thailand) to Chiang Mai April 9-10, 2016

Tachileik Blogs

1. Visa-Run to Tachileik, Myanmar Sep 28, 2019
2. 2 Days in Tachileik, Myanmar Apr 23-25, 2016
3. Border Crossing - Mae Sai (Thailand) to Tachileik (Myanmar) Apr 23, 2016

Tachileik FYI / Tips

• there are no bicycle rentals here
• don't expect to be hanging out with backpackers. There are no tourists here.
• the cheapest lodging here is B250 for a fan room with shared bathrooms at Erawan Hotel
• you can use Thai Baht. It is the preferred currency
• there is now internet in Tachileik
• there is a B500 entrance fee to Tachileik. Asean member countries are NOT exempted
• there is a $3/day fee for staying in Tachileik (Immigration said so, but I was not charged for my 2 day stay)
• when crossing an international border, always start early. You'll never know what will delay you.

How to Get to Tachileik from Chiang Mai

• take the Green Bus at the Arcade Terminal 3 Bus Station in Chiang Mai, bound for Mae Sai, B319 for VIP seats, (mine left 9:30am, arrived Mae Sai city proper 2:10pm -there are other time slots). You can also buy the bus ticket within Old City (Thonon Rachadamnoen Alley corner Singharat Rd) but you pay B20 extra.
• at the Mae Sai town proper, take the red taxi to the border, B15, 10 mins

Things to do, Places to go in Tachileik

1. Tachileik Market - big border market for local shoppers and wholesaler buyers. Lots of fake cigarettes, fake Viagra, mostly fake items.
2. Enrobed Elephant Temple
3. Tachileik Shwedagon Pagoda

Tachileik Cost Index

• B20 one can Leo beer
• B80 1.0 liter Myanmar bottled beer
• B40-60 noodle soup with meat
• B40 coffee
• B250 fan room, shared toilet at Erawan Hotel
• B400 fan room, ensuite toilet
• B20 1km tuk-tuk ride

Mae Sai, Thailand

- hotel

• Top North Hotel - central location, walk to border

- cafe

• Top North Cafe - Western and Thai food, reasonable price

Mae Sai FYI / Tips

• best to book your hotel near the border since that's where most of the action is
• there are cheaper lodging not listed in Agoda that go for as little as B150/night. Just coast the street along the river towards the west direction, towards Mae Sai Guesthouse

How to Get to Mae Sai

• from Chiang Rai - it's one straight bus ride from Chiang Rai at the bus station. Take the Green Bus and you get off at Mae Sai city center bus station. Take a waiting red taxi to the border, B15, 10 mins
• from Chiang Mai - there is a direct bus all the way to Mae Sai. Take the Green Bus at the Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Station, Terminal 3 (platform 20/21), B347 for VIP seats (B223 a/c seats) to Mae Sai city proper, 5 hours. Then take the short ride by red taxi to the border, B15, 10 mins

Things to do, Places to go in Mae Sai

1. Mae Sai Market - the expansive market is really the main draw of Mae Sai apart from being a visa-run destination
2. Fish Cave aka Monkey Temple at Wat Tham Pla - you can feed the monkeys and carp. Food can be purchased at the temple for B20
3. Cross into Myanmar - tourists can pay B500 to cross into Myanmar and take a peak at their daily life. There is also a big market across the border, selling mostly fake stuff imported from China
4. Tum Luang-Khun Naam Naang Norn Forest Park - water fall, rock pools, swimming
5. Wat Phra That Doi Wao aka Skorpion Temple - panoramic view of Myanmar from the Golden Triangle

Mae Sai Cost Index

• B70 one big bottle Chang beer
• B5 bottled water
• B100 one hour street massage
• B40-60 noodle soup with meat
• B40-60 coffee
• B40-60 pad thai
• B75 muesli + yogurt + fruit breakfast
• B400 double bed in a fan room, shared toilet incl. breakfast
• B15 red taxi ride from bus terminal to border

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