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Mar 29, 2016
Catching the Phare Circus in Siem Reap
Show Title: Sokha
Location: Phare Circus Ring Road, south of the intersection with Sok San Road, Siem Reap, Cambodia
GPS waypoint: 13°21'18.6"N 103°50'22.1"E
Circus from Battambang When I visited Battambang in Sep 2014, the highlight for me was catching the night circus by Phare. Now in Siem Reap, I see that the same group is showcasing circus events as well. I didn't want to miss it!
Phare, The Cambodian Circus
The Phare circus is an entertaining narrative of Cambodia's culture, folklore and history using drama, music, modern circus, art, dance and theater to convey its message. Its shows are performed by students and graduates from its training center in Battambang, the Phare Ponleu Selpak. These students come from horrifying social and economic backgrounds and have taken refuge at Phare. Without knowing this backdrop, it would be hard to notice seeing how talented and impassioned these people are.
Background on Phare In 1994 after the expulsion of the Khmer Rouge out of Cambodia, 9 survivors of the genocide took refuge in Battambang where they were helped by a teacher who used art as therapy to the troubled youngsters. This was the genesis that pioneered an art school offering free education, followed by a music school, then a theater school and finally, a circus school. Revenue generated by the circus takes the graduates and students out of poverty and help develop their self-respect and confidence.
Sokha Storyline The circus play begins during an innocent time in Cambodian history when Cambodia was free, progressive and peaceful. It was a time of fun and upliftment. That was before the US bombing of Cambodia (and nearby Laos) in its effort to escalate the Vietnam war and before the genocidal regime of the Khmer Rouge. The upheaval was depicted through the lives of Sokha, a female Khmer, and her community. The story continues into the horrors and brutality of the Khmer Rouge occupation, followed by the insurmountable difficulties of recovery. Finally, they begin to rebuild and find themselves inching towards normalcy and progress. The entire show is a mosaic of live painting by Robit Pen, original live music, drama, circus acrobatics and balancing feats, dance and movement. The circus ends on an optimistic note.
Risa I was joined to the circus by Risa, a Japanese whom I met in Battambang over a year ago. We traveled together by boat to Siem Reap and biked around the city and to Angkor Wat. I am surprised that she chose to stay in Siem Reap. It was all good seeing her again and coming to the circus together.
Craig Dodge My attendance was through the kindness of Craig Dodge, the indefatigable Sales and Marketing Director of the center. I and Risa had an engaging conversation with him prior to the show. He talked about his vision and the way he leveraged on his travels and tours background to increase viewership. I sensed his passion and dedication about his crusade and more importantly, how effective he is. What was once an obscure circus act three years ago is now a global phenomenon enjoying full bookings.
Robit Pen The surprise of the evening was seeing Robit doing the live painting on the show. I met him in Battambang after doing my Vipassana course. He is also a Vipassana meditator. We hung out in Battambang together with Sokun and Cheanik, all Vipassana meditators as well.
Ending Thoughts The fact that your money goes to uplift the plight of these students who want a better life for themselves is already a homerun. But watching this circus is a double header. Even if it was a purely commercial circus with no cause whatsoever, you get your money's worth. The circus act was spot-on with its surgical precision and high entertainment value. It was moving, compelling and powerful! A must-see when visiting Siem Reap.
--- TheLoneRider
Phare, the Cambodian Circus
Phare, the Cambodian Circus
Show Title: Sokha
Location: Phare Circus Ring Road, south of the intersection with Sok San Road, Siem Reap, Cambodia
Tel: +855 92 225 320
Showtime: nightly at 8pm (no admission when show starts)
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Siem Reap Cost Index (US$1 = Riel 4049 = Php 46.47 as of Mar 26, 2016)
- $2.00 haircut (they'll price you at $3 but local price is only $2)
- $0.50 one mug draft beer
- $0.50 1.5 liter drinking water
- $4.00 one hour massage
- $2.00 muesli breakfast
- $0.50-1.50 coffee
- $2.00 pad thai
- $1.00 bicycle rental, 24 hours
- $0.25 sugar cane juice in a plastic cup
- $0.50 fresh coconut
- $5.00/day single fan rooms
- $4.00/day dorm lodging at Garden Village Guesthouse
- $18.00 starting price for Phare circus
- $1.00/kilo laundry
- $1.00 regular tuk-tuk ride around town
- $15.00 tuk-tuk ride for a short tour of Angkor Wat
- $20.00 Angkor Wat admission fee
- $8.00 1-hour drop-in yoga session
- $5.00 Alibaba pants (asking price is usually $8 but they'll go down to $5)
- take a tuk-tuk at the airport to the town center, $5/trip (you can split the cost with other passengers from your plane), 10 min
- no need to convert your dollars into riel. All establishments in Cambodia accept US dollars.
Mar 29, 2016
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