Whang Od, the Famous Tattoo Artist of Buscalan, Kalinga

Location : Buscalan (village), Tinglayan (municipality), Kalinga (province), Philippines

Buscalan Rice Terraces
From Butbut, we continued our hike towards the village of Buscalan. After an hour, we caught our first glimpse of Buscalan upon seeing its majestic rice terraces - it carpeted the multi-layered mountain slope with its velvety-like visual texture. In scope and grandeur, it's one of the best in the Cordillera.

Buscalan's Famous Tattoo Artist
Buscalan was made famous by Whang Od, its oldest tattoo artist when she graced an episode on Discovery Channel (or was it Nat Geographic?). We went straight to her house. My guide seemed to have a comfort level with her as he has guided many to have their tattoos done. Whang Od was perhaps in her 80s, nearly covered by tattoo herself - a hallmark of beauty in the Kalinga region. Although we couldn't understand each other, I sensed the warm welcome. We were offered a hot hearty lunch. I left 4 matches as a thank you. No, I wasn't tempted to have a tattoo done on me.

A Dying Art
I am not sure if others have taken on the art of tattooing, but it didn't seem the case, nothwithstanding Whang Od's celebrity. I could speculate that an overseas job is more lucrative. It would be sad to think that when Whang Od is no longer around, her art will likewise disappear from tradition.

Catching the Last Trip
We didn't stay long in Buscalan. After the filling lunch, we were already on our way to Bugnay Village to catch the last trip to Tinglayan - missing it means an 11 km hike along the dusty road under intense heat.

--- TheLoneRider

• There is no public transport for this one. Take a guide - actually, you should have already taken one before going to Tulgao.

• bring lots of matches. That'll be your currency. Give matches to those who offer you food, to those whose pictures you took, etc.
• when offered food or water, take it! It tells them you can be trusted.

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Comments:

Vanez Ba-od
(Jan 14, 2013) I am really thankful and blessed because I belong to this place and I miss very much the place where I belong

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