Laing (Pinangat) and Bicol Express

Bicol has always been known for its hot and spicy culinary dishes prepared with coconut milk, the 2 most famous being the laing and Bicol Express.

What is Bicol Express?
Bicol Express is pork cooked in coconut milk and spiced up with hot peppers. Interestingly, this dish was born in the Malate district of Manila, but done in the Bicol style of cooking.

What is Laing?
Laing, I later found out, is a Manila term applied to Bicol's pinangat. While laing served in Manila has pork and spices added to it, Bicol's pinangat is a vegetarian offering, cooked in coconut milk until reduced, and wrapped in gabi leaves. I'll use the words laing and pinangat interchangeably. There is a right way to prepare the taro leaves. If not prepared right, it will leave a stingy itch in the mouth.

Hit or Miss Laing
As a general rule, I go for the region's culinary specialty whenever they have one. Being in Bicol, my radar was up for the best laing and Bicol Express. To my dismay, I've had a few misses. I thought laing was good everywhere in Bicol. After asking around, I was repeatedly told that the best laing could be had in the town of Camalig - a jeep ride away from Legazpi proper. Needless to say, I was on the jeep for my laing treat.

Camalig
In Camalig, specialty laing restaurants were lined up side by side along a section of the main road. They all specialize in 3 dishes - laing (again, locally called Pinangat), Bicol Express snd inulukan (don't ask me about this. I was too full to order this third option). I would always order laing and Bicol Express + rice.

Food Synergy
Laing by itself is a stand alone dish. Its soft milky texture leaves an agreeable finish on the palette. Bicol Express on the other hand has a much stronger flavor, edgy and leaves a bite. By combining both, I get a dish offering the best of both plus an added bonus. The resulting dish offers the texture and consistency of laing's taro leaves, the edge and robust taste of the meat in Bicol Express, while underscoring the coconut flavor that binds them both. I don't know what to call this dish but to me, it's more than the sum of the laing and the Bicol Express. Analogy? Hmmm...think French Bordeaux. It has the roundness of Merlot grapes and the strong tannic presence of Cabernet Sauvingon. Together, they bring balance to this great wine - same thing for this Bicol dish.

Ending Thoughts
I cannot help but be reminded of my batchoy experience in Iloilo where you are always assured batchoy is good. You cannnot have bad batchoy in Iloilo. Here in Bicol, that's not necessarily the case. You have to go to Camalig to enjoy genuine laing and Bicol Express. I'm sure good laing can be had in one-off restaurants within Bicol, but that's playing Russian Roulette if you don't have local guidance. If you want a sure thing, short of being invited to a home-cooked meal, Camalig is the place.

But don't let Camalig be the last word on laing and Bicol Express. If you know of any other place (anywhere, not just Bicol) where laing and Bicol Express is at their best, please let me know, and I'll post it in this story.

--- TheLoneRider

Related Links:

• Laing recipe
• Bicol Express recipe

Visitors' Feedback on good Laing/Bicol Express places:

• i know this really good laing place in p.tuazon, malapit sa chocolate lovers palace...katapat ng dating LVN studios. Laing, Atbp. pangalan. carinderia style pero saraaap -- Vyzx
• laing pizza at CWC Camsur -- Bernz
• laing/bicol express pizza (P210) at CWC is fab! Also, P30/serving at a local carinderia in Kamias (k-6 st corner k-h) -- Wanderosa

Reader Comments:

Berns Brillantes
(Oct 27, 2012) Bumatay...they have Laing and Bicol Express authentic from Bicol.

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