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Batchoy
Location : Iloilo City, Iloilo, Philippines
Being a Noodle Guy
I'm a noodle soup guy. When in Baguio, I feast on beef mami. In Palawan where there is a Vietnamese community, I satisfy myself with phô (mint pork noodle soup) breakfast, lunch and dinner. Now in Iloilo, ground zero for the popular batchoy, I rolled up my sleeves for some major batchoy indulgence and find out for myself who's got the best batchoy in town.
What is Batchoy?
Batchoy is pork noodle soup with a heavy garlic flavor. Latest version of the soup comes with pork rind topping (chicharon) and accompanied by rice cake. In Iloilo, you can request extra soup at no extra charge. Cost? A very affordable P30-40/serving.
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Batchoy Galore
In the week that I stayed in Iloilo, I would challenge any Ilongo who can claim to have eaten more batchoy than me. I practically survived on batchoy...breakfast, lunch and dinner from any place serving it - roadside stall, public market, mall, fast foods, hole in the wall carinderia, etc. I even went out of my way to try it from its place of origin - the town of La Paz, at the market place.
Deco's vs. Ted's
Of all the batchoy places in Iloilo, two chains loom big - Deco's and Ted's. I've tried Ted's a few times in different places. Each tasted different from the others. One of the most mediocre and one of the best I've had was Ted's. And I think that's where the dilemma lies - in a franchise, you can't have complete control of how it's done and you get inconsistency problems. Deco's, I tried twice - one in a mall and the other at the La Paz market. On both occassions, they were satisfyingly good.
Batchoy Genesis
I've heard different versions on who invented batchoy. From one site, I read that Ted's pioneered the first serving of batchoy in 1945. However, when I went to La Paz market at Deco's I was given a handout of how batchoy came to be - that it was Federico Guillergan Sr., a butcher from La Paz market who experimented with different ingredients until he perfected the recipe and put up the Deco's counter-type eatery at the same market. Another version I got from Inggo's Batchoy, an obscure batchoy nook in Iloilo market was that Inggo invented the batchoy and even had Ted's grandfather as the dishwasher. Oh well, I'm sure there are other versions floating out there.
Ending Thoughts
Given all the batchoy I've had, there was not one single batchoy I didn't like. Fact is, you cannot have bad batchoy in Iloilo. It's just a matter of preference. Some come with an almost overwhelming garlic flavor, some are on the greasy side and surprisingly, some are even sweet. Next time you're in Iloilo, don't miss out on it. Batchoy is always imitated outside Iloilo, but never done the way Ilongos make it.
--- Gigit (TheLoneRider)
YOGA by Gigit
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More on Iloilo City
Iloilo City Pros and Cons
Pros
- Great Food - La Paz Batchoy, Pancit Molo, baye-baye, KBL (Kadyos, Baboy, at Langka)
Batchoy doesn't get any better than in La Paz - Cinemateque Cinema - quality Filipino full-length movies for free twice a day on weekdays inside an air-conditioned comfortable cinematic screening room
Cinemateque Cinema offers a spacious and comfy screening room - Oysters - oysters are abundant and cheap at P60/bowl
big oysters at P60 for this bowl - River esplanades - Iloilo City has many rivers with wide, cobblestoned walkways lined along its banks, often on both sides
River esplanades line up the banks of Iloilo City's rivers
- Dedicated bike lanes - major thorough fares are clearly marked with dedicated bicycle lanes
Dedicated bike lanes along Iloilo City's major thorough fares - Heritage mansions - although most have been neglected and now in a state of disrepair, there is a growing movement to restore them. This one, the Molo Mansion, was purchased by SM and refurbished back. The surrounding grounds were converted to chill-out zones with popular eating stalls
Molo Mansion - Yoga community - from what I've seen, Iloilo has a vibrant yoga community. It has many yoga studios and fitness gyms offering yoga. There also seems to be a healthy conscious community. This means a lot to me. I would be in my elements.
many yoga studios and fitness gyms offering yoga - Shopping Malls - Iloilo City has 3 Robinsons and 2 SMs. Ayala is yet to develop its mall but it's in the works. A mall is a litmus test or a benchmark to a city's progress. A backward city probably has a 'mom and pop' mall like Tagbilaran's ICM Mall where they will cancel a last full show if there aren't at least 5 people - forget about the people who made the trip to see that movie.
fashion show at Robinsons Mall
Cons
- Black Smoke Emissions - public jeepneys and most commercial vehicles spew black smoke from their mufflers leaving Iloilo's air dirty and unhealthy. This is simply a matter of enforcing existing emission laws, but this practice goes on unabated. This tells me the public officials are too comfortable inside their SUVs, they no longer know what's happening at street level.
- They Destroy Good Roads - on the surface, it looks stupid but the reality is blantant corruption.
Corrupt politicians destroy good roads if there's money in it for them - Drivers do not Yield to Pedestrians Crossing the Pestrian Lane
these vehicles will run over you on a pedestrian lane if you're not careful
Iloilo City Travel Tips
Travel Tips:
- from the airport, a cab is around P300. But a van (where passengers are pooled until it gets full) is only P50 to SM. However, you can negotiate with the driver to drop you off your hotel at no extra charge. But you have to ask for it, otherwise he'll drop everyone off at SM. It's also a good idea to get his number and arrange for pick-up to the airport.
- When in Jaro, negotiate with a pedicabby to take you to all the old-world mansions. Mine agreed to P100 for an hour of touring.
- when in Iloilo City, you must eat their Batchoy especially at La Paz for the renowned La Paz Batchoy
- take the short jeep ride to Villa Beach and eat by the beach
Places to Stay:
- Ong Bun Pension House - single bed with shared bathroom, P150/night, near corner Quezon-Ledesma Street, (033)3351271 or (0910)4335048
How to get to Iloilo by boat
- From Cuyo
- MV Milagrosa - +(63)947.790.4873 / +(63)915.265.7032, Economy P475, Deluxe P575, Tourist Class (a/c) P750
- From Bacolod
- Ocean Jet - 8 round trips daily, 6:15am/7:45am/9:15am/10:45am/12:45pm/2:15pm/3:45pm/5:15pm, (033)335.8887/509.7543/509.9018
Iloilo City Map
Iloilo City Yoga Studios
- Healing Iloilo - Molo Mansion, Molo, Iloilo City, 5000 Iloilo, 09270790391
- Barefoot Yoga Studio - 26C Luna St, La Paz, Iloilo City, Iloilo, 09476838627
- Bamboo Yoga - Santa Barbara, Iloilo
- Yoga Moeh Garden Studio - Merlo Street, Santa Barbara, Iloilo
- Perfect Total Fitness - 3/F Lourdes Building (Medicus Corner, Quezon Street, General Luna St), Iloilo City Proper, 0335036857
- Bereber Pilates Wellness Center - AvanceƱa St, Molo, Iloilo City, Iloilo, 09603654400
Iloilo City to Cebu City by boat
- Trans Asia Shipping - Terminal 2, Pier 3, 15 hours, Tuesdays and Saturdays, 6 pm (ETA 8:30 am, next day), Trans Asia 19 boat, Tourist P1545 (SR P1236), 2nd Class open air P1400 (SR 1120)
Iloilo City to Guimaras by boat
- FF Cruz Shipping Corporation - M/V Felipe III (CARGO-PAX), Port of Jordan Roro Wharf (Guimaras), 30 mins, Economy (Non-aircon): P35, daily every 30 mins/1 hour from 4:30 am to 6:30 pm
Blogs
Iloilo City
ILOILO CITY
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