Tuna Night with friends at Hostel 7 Cebu
Cebu's One-of-a-Kind
Cebu (or the Philippines for that matter), isn't known for food (compared to Thailand or Vietnam), but there are one-ofs that are simply a gem and not to be missed. It may take some asking around with the locals on what is 'not to be missed'. At some point, you come to a concensus. While Cebu City is the convergence of all these regional specialties, still the local towns pride themselves in being the original and being the best - e.g. lechon in Carcar.
Moreover, the best dishes really are the ones served in homes where time-honed traditions have perfected a recipe that has been passed on through generations - e.g. the family that owns Hostel 7 Cebu has been in the food business for years and when they prepare a banquet for friends (picture below), it becomes obvious they know what they're doing.
Lechon (in Carcar)
Cebu has always been known for its lechon, even though lechon can be had anywhere in the Philippines. Cebu prides that its lechon is already infused with flavor that lechon sauce is no longer needed. Its reputation exploded when Anthony Bourdain remarked, "best pig ever" in his global hit tv show, No Reservations.
Hands down, the best lechon and the most affordable lechon can be had at the Carcar Public Market, about an hour's bus ride south from Cebu City. At the market, they have a whole section offering lechon only. I've had lechon several times in Cebu City and chicharon in Carcar in a bus (en route to Moalboal) but I haven't really made a food trip to Carcar for lechon alone. When that happens, I'll update this blog.
Itchoy's Batchoyan (near Vicente Sotto Hospital)
The best one-ofs would have to be an obscure local carinderia that shot to fame because of good food. The acid test is when you see rich people eating there. Rich people won't be caught dead eating in a low-end place. One such place is Itchoy's Batchoyan. I'd been there a few times and so far, everything I ordered hit the spot. It's always inviting to come back to taste the rest of what's on the menu. It has been featured in food tv shows and food magazines. It fact, it was a rich guy who recommended me to that place. Given its popularity, they polished the place a bit, so you can say it's now an upscale carinderia***.
*** An upscale carinderia is a precarious tight-wire act on the chasm of cheap carinderia and a pricey restaurant. It's as sparsely populated as being yakapmates (bordering on that narrow and volatile spectrum between friends and lovers, neither belonging in either but spanning both worlds). Few have attempted, but fewer still have succeeded.
Linarang (at the Pasil Fish Market)
Linarang is a popular thick fish stew with tomatoes, green mangoes, and black beans. It has its origin at the fish market in Pasil. The sidewalk eating stalls by the fish market offer the freshest and best tasting of them all. serving times vary, some saying as early as 3am, but when I went there, Larang was still being cooked and won't be ready by 7am (pictured below). I have had Linarang near Fuente Osmena and one in Pasil. Initially, I thought it would be similar to the Bouillabaise of Marseille, France. But Larang is actually a sour soup that is best taken when it's still piping hot from the wok. The many types of Larang are named after the fish used in the broth - e.g. Jack Larang for Jack fish (mamsa).
Entoy's Bakasihan (in Cordova)
To be honest again, I haven't been, but this place is strongly recommended by locals. It's just too far and too many rides from where I am to get there.
Ending Thoughts
Food in Cebu will always be a work-in-progress because it's impossible to know where all the good spots are. Even with Larang, with so many eating places serving it, the only reliable way to know who's best is to try as much of them as possible.