A First Timer in Dharamshala

Location: Dharamshala (city), Himachal Pradesh (state), India

Next Mini-Life?
Having done my mini-life in Rishikesh, it was time to move on again. Manali? Ladak? Shimla? They were the likely destinations during the monsoon season for cooler and dry climate. However, since I only had 30 days left in my visa for another 30-day mini-life, I chose Dharamshala - the residence of his Holiness, the Dalai Lama and seat of the Tibetan government-in-exile.

Rishikesh to Dharamshala
The least painful way (there is no pain-free way) to reach Dharamshala was to take the afternoon bus from Gurdwara (near the Indian Oil petrol station, about 3kms from Laxman Jhula towards the main town of Rishikesh, but before crossing the bridge). Tickets can be purchased from any travel agency around Rishikesh (Inr 1100, 14.5 hours, non a/c). It left 4:30pm (not 4pm as they all say) and arrived McLeod Ganj at 7am. The bus was slow and stopped a long time in Dehradun. It was a hot and bumpy ride as there was no a/c and the fans were not working. At McLeod Ganj, with travelers I met in the bus, we shared a cab ride (Inr 200) to Upper Bagsu where we looked for lodging.

Another way to get to Dharamshala is to go to either Haridwar or Dehradun and take the bus to Dharamshala and get off at Lower Dharamshala. You'll have to take another ride to McLeod Ganj. There are many transfers and subsequent waiting for this alternative, but I was told you could get an a/c bus.

Dharamshala is cold and it rains in the afternoon - a sharp departure from the heat and dryness of Rishikesh.

a walk from Upper Dharamkot to McLeod Ganj, Dharamshala

Lodging
Normally, I would have booked 2 days in advance to a new destination - just to settle down and buy time to find better or free accommodation. But in Agoda, the prices were in the $7/night range. The cheapest, $5/night, was too far from the center. I took my chance hoping I could find cheap lodging upon arrival.

Still within the heart of Upper Bagsu, I found a room for Inr 300. It was cheap, but the energy was dead. Besides, I would run out of money before my 30 days end if I continue paying that rate. I talked to several hotels for a web-deal but nothing.

Going further up in Upper Bagsu, walking up the steep narrow trail, I found another place for Inr 200/night ($3.00) or 300/night ($4.50) if shared. I offered the 'shared' option to a Canadian traveler I met earlier, but she wanted her own room. Too bad. I relished the thought of paying only Inr 150/night. Anyway, Inr 200 buys me time to make money and sustain my stay. My new digs was awesome - great view of the valley below, colder air, no street noise, soothing energy, but no internet. I have to go to the nearby cafes for wifi. I advanced one week payment. This gives me peace of mind knowing I won't have to worry about a roof over my head for a week. I can relax and explore the area.

Upper Bhagsu
There are 2 suitable places to stay in Dharamshala where it's not too crowded or noisy - Upper Dharamkot and Upper Bhagsu (where I stayed 2 nights). Many cozy cafes and restaurants serving Indian, Israeli and Continental offerings. It's not as crowded as main Bhagsu, but it is still a party place for the Israelis who mostly dominate the area. Black tea is only Inr 20 - a cheap way to chillout and check the internet. Often, I end up talking to other travelers. Many of them come for yoga and meditation - very much like Rishikesh (but without the heat). The atmosphere is chill.

Hippie Community
In the upper range of Upper Dharamkot, a 5-min walk from my new digs, is a cluster of hippie cafes - Friendly Corner Cafe, Salvation Cafe, Heena Cafe, etc. This area is already removed from the daily grind of Dharamkot or Bagsu. The elevation is much higher, the temperature much cooler and the people seem to be filtered from the rest of Dharamshala. The community here is more chill...modern-day hippies. People are friendly and it's cool to talk to everyone. The topic of conversation is centered on yoga, meditation and spiritual pursuit. While I was at Friendly Cafe, I met 3 other people who just met each other there, and we were all Vipassana meditators! At Salvation Cafe, I was recognized by someone I met in Ubud, Bali two years ago! As a lone traveler, I take refuge in any of those cafes for interaction and wifi.

Ending Thoughts
For now, I'm settled in a place I can stay for a while - this gives me peace of mind for the moment. Optimism is high and the energy feels good. Money* is low, but I'm not worried. My shoes cracked* open, but I'm still cool (although I can't do any trekking). I just feel good about Dharamshala. Let's see how the rest of my 3 weeks unravel.

--- TheLoneRider
YOGA by Gigit | Learn English | Travel like a Nomad | Donation Bank

* I talk about low funds and equipment falling apart, as part of my experience...part of my process. It's not a plea for help. I have the full assurance of my benevolent universe that it's looking after me despite toying with me from time to time. But thanks to caring friends for their concern.

Reader Comments:

Laura Pearce

Ley De

Next stop: Matters of the Heart

Dharamshala Map

Dharamshala (city), India

hotel

• Pema Thang Guest House & Restaurant - central McLeod Ganj location, quiet area, Kangra Valley view, near Tsuklakhang (main temple) and market
  Dharamshala, HP 176057 INDIA

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